Trek 4500/ GP460/ 8 speed SHIFTER

[Ghost0]

We get around some of these problems by using a little wider crank spindle. This moves everything a little more to the right and improves the chain alignment. I can't comment on how it might affect the chain alignment from the engine on your build though.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

yes ghost0 that is valid.

i needed to go from a 116mm BB to a 122.5mm to get the inner clearance i needed to start with. i would need to get atleast a 125mm, but more like a 127mm BB to get what i want now.

i know where to get them ,but i don't want to buy another BB and i'm pretty good at seeing and accomplishing this type of alternative.

fortunately for me, the engine mount i'm using is totally adjustable, so i can realign the output sprocket to the 44T chainring where ever it ends up.

thanks,
steve

 

[DetonatorTuning]

well, as has been the case at about this point in these build threads, i seem to start talking to myself LOL.

i have the all the percievable tweeking done. chains, sprockets and derailer all adjusted and working smooth and faultless.

i saw some 1" wide pedal standoff's on ebay directed toward the recumbent croud, i think they will give just the final skoash of clearance to make pedaling a true option rather than an emergency only excercise.

did some shakedown miles yesterday, real happy with the whole thing. with the flexibility of my engine and the close ratio / MEGA range cassette this thing is very quick and has killer topend too. nice combination of light mount and drivetrain, with shiftabiblity and chain ruggedness.

just one or two final details of the lights and a vent for the fuel tank and it's finished.

then, THE TORTURE BEGINS. 40ml. round trips at 45mph, IF it stays together.

GEBE belts could only take it for 30 days (less without constant discipline ) and the Staton couldn't deliver the mpgs due to weight and power losses.

thanks for riding along,

steve

 

[thescooterguy]

if you used all your lock washers and washers on the mount , it will stay right where you put it . for sure , and will not rattle apart . Ive log hundreds of miles without having to turn a screw . as for your chain clearance on the freewheel have you tried moving your chain ring to the outside of the freewheel and using low clearance screws , that's what i do if the bike frame gets in the way of the larger sprocket. maybe that's where you have and i haven't been following along close enough.

 

[Alaskavan]

You're not talking to yourself. I'm sure many of us are watching the build with great interest.

 

[spad4me]

You are not talking to yourself..

I for one am listening.



LOOK here
40ml. round trips at 45mph.

See.

You use a quart of gasoline each way or each DAY

Monday thru Friday.

 

[Pablo]

I'm riveted.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

Jerry, i have no concerns about the setup, i'm really quite confident in it.

Van, i had no idea you were lurking this thread, thanks.

spad, that's a quart a day and as you know there's about to be ANOTHER thread.

Pablo, you guys were the inspiration for this build, when you put out your kits i knew i wanted to try it with these motors. Jerry's mount made it a slam dunk for me.

thanks,
steve

 

[DetonatorTuning]

well, i've been staying around town, what there is of it. my town is actually 2 mls. across north/south -east/west so even if i stay out on the county roads i'm not far from home.

i have to say i'm totally impressed with the mount plate and 5:1 tranny Jerry provides. it's the simplest and solidest configuration i have delt with so far.

now that i have a new final chain and gotten my rear derailer tuned in i have ZERO issues.

i just got back from a 20ml. run at the speeds i'll be using on my work commutes. nothing moved out of adjustment, no issues at all.

GEBE riders will be surprized at the LACK of vibration in seat, handlebars or pedals in a double chain drive system of this sort.

Staton gear box users will be impressed by the 14#'s this arrangement weighs, and that includes my 8# GP460 engine. the fact that the weight is in the center of the bike is an added plus.

i have to tell you, i can see why Jerry never bothered with pedals in the past. with a close ratio/ wide range cassette pedals are the ultimate redundancy on this thing.

i have already worked out how to mount my pedals inline with each other on the BB and "hang" them from the chain stays with brackets i've made, to have rear pegs with no drilling and the ability to convert back to pedalability in 2 mins.

Monday morning at 6:00am i'll start commuting 200-240 mls. at $2.10-$2.52 a week.

do you have ideas of how to make a motorized bike a full on / permanent form of alternative transportation?

GO FOR IT !!

steve

 

[DetonatorTuning]

short report, i promise, LOL

18T and 16T are much too low for any real world travel. the 16T is 14.55:1 overall and you can't use it at all unless you move in to it at full throttle and hold it there. ANY grade will pull your rpms and speed back down and you'll have to shift back down.

tonight i'm going to install a 19T and 18T final cogs. the 18T will give me a 16.36:1 overall and MIGHT be useful for low speed low rpm cruising. in any case it's the smallest outside position cog available so it will work as a spacer if nothing else.

i hope to get a pic of the lights in the pitch black back yard tomorrow before i leave, i think you'll like them, i sure do.

steve