Trek 4500/ GP460 now Staton 18.75 Drive

appye,

after some work and measuring, tonight i took the Dom mounting bracket completely off the bottom of the expansion chamber right down to the weld. from there i ground and filed the weld some and did some test fitting.

the weld from the bracket is directly centered over and in line with the outer flange / rim of the drive box. i'll have to get it ground down pretty much flush with the chamber at which point i think it will make it on, but it will be touching, so i'll have to decide if i'm going to dent the chamber or grind off some of that outer flange.

i'm pretty sure i'm going to take a little off the flange since it's so thick and far away from the actual sealing edges of the box. i'm concerned with altering the tune of the pipe by denting it, i don't want to loose any lowend and i sure don't need any more topend !!

after i get a clear fit i'll relocate a bracket to keep the vibratory stress off the flange bolts. that takes care of the presently visible obsticle to the verticle inside drive mounting and Dom pipe arrangement.

tomorrow i'm picking up some square tube stock, some flat stock and proceeding with my support rack.

good thing too. i'm starting to get the arms crossed, toe tapping, ears smoking, glare at any mention of motorbike parts or workings.

my third and last belt is going to have nearly 750mls. on it by the end of the week, i hope i have this finished off by the end of the month. i'm not to confident that this belt is going to make it past 1000mls. either.

dag gum hi faluting big torque flingin' national average speed limit bustin' engine anyways !!

steve
 
well, I am already committed to an outside drive unfortunately so my solution will probably have to differ from yours somewhat. We shall see.

My wife hates my bike a whole bunch too. I keep telling her "you'll see" in the sense that eventually I will have it dialed in to the point where I have a reliable everyday driver. That is the goal anyway. If I don't, then maybe eventually I will give up and pick up a scooter, but I really want to keep my bicycle setup because it is a bit more versatile I think.
 
here's a new question for someone with tuned expansion pipe building experience or configuration understanding.

i have a DDM Dominator pipe, you guys have or can see pics of it in my TREK 4500 build thread.

if i shorten the headpipe (first segment w/ the mounting flange ) that is now 5" long by 1/2" making it 4.5" long, how will it change the characteristics of the pipe ?

will it make it stronger or weaker in some area or another ? or move the main power band higher or lower in the rpm range ?

thanks,
steve
 
Huh ... I would have thought the opposite because making the header shorter makes it so the backpressure resonance would start sooner because there is less pipe to fill up.

I am just guessing though.
 
Even the x-can when you add the x port which extends the muffler out 1/2 inch adds tork. I fly airplanes and tuned many pipes.
 
Padded vise on the gear, strap wrench on the drub, right hand threads with Loctite. Not seen raised center drum, s/b flat.

made a call to David to double check that the clutch drum i ordered was correct, caught him near the phone as it had been busy just before.

he said the box i have is one of his latest ones with a snapring between the bearings, but was at a loss as to just why a 2 piece drum and shaft was in it. both the gear and the drum are threaded onto the ends of the shaft.

i mentioned that i hadn't taken the drum and shaft out because i was goingto take it to a vise. kind of upset him, he said just put a 13/16 socket on an impact and buz the gear while holding the drum with a rag, then hold the back of the shaft and buz the gear again and it will come off too.

sure enough, just like he said, real nice and easy.

so he's looking my order over and says he was about to ship it but that he was out of 16T gears, would i like to just go with a shaft to freewheel adaptor and 16T freewheel so that he could send it all out today complete.

now i did expect to pay for the extra pieces, but i think this was very considerate. i made the order online on Sat. and he was shipping it with a back order today and created a new invoice over the phone and shipped it all moments later.

i can't for the life of me concieve how others have experiences with this guy that cause the kind of comments that have surfaced on this forum. i for one am a Staton Fan !!

steve
 
You will lose some low end tork and mid range.


OK, what kind of SOME are we talking about ? you said that using the x-port in front of the x-can MADE torque, how much ?

what about topend, any loss or changes ? i guess this mid-range sag will make the topend power band seem to hit harder ?

thanks for watchin gout for me Craig,

steve
 
It is not about "pipes" filling up, that is an erroneous notion, it has to do with the time it takes for the (negative) pressure wave to be reflected back to the exhaust port to aid in scavenging,the shorter the pipe the quicker this occurs,which means at higher frequencies,that is at higher rpm.
 
You can check out the x-ports at ddm. I know 4 sure my 460 with the x-can will walk away from the dom up to 30mph, from 30 on the dom pulls away a little.
 
Back
Top