Trek Navigator? and Basic Noob Questions

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jason74, Jun 18, 2009.

  1. Jason74

    Jason74 New Member

    Tomorrow I plan to buy a 2004 Trek Navigator 100 to use as my project bike. According to my search, it looks like this bike will work. However, before spending the $110 dollars, I wanted to double check and make sure that I can use this bike ( I really like the ride of the comfort bike). Will this bike work?

    Here a few other additional "Noob" questions...

    1. The frame on the above mentioned bike has over sized frame tubes. If I buy a basic 49cc HT kit, will it come with all the material needed to adapt to the larger frame or will I need to purchase that separate?

    2. Will I be able to keep the front brake, or will I lose it in place of the clutch lever?

    3. If I install a HT motor, will I still be able to enjoy pedaling, or will the motor setup make it too cumbersome?

    4. I assume that to pedal with the motor not running I will have to hold the clutch in. Does this get old and tiring or does it require little effort?

    Thanks a bunch for your time!


  2. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    According to these specs.... this bike is an aluminum frame. Lots of us prefer a steel frame. Steel is more durable to all the vibration, from these HT engines.
    for oversized tubes, you'll need to get creative, on the front engine mount. Please DO NOT drill your frame... as suggested by most of the manufacturer's instructions.
    You will end up with 2 levers on your left side you can have both, front brake & clutch control.
    heh heh....loaded question. After you install an'll never enjoy pedaling again! :evilgrin:'ll probably feel a little drag, from the extra chain & such.
    Most kits come with a locking clutch lever.

    I hope this helps.
  3. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I have my doubts that this bike will be satisfactory for engine room,but BEFORE u buy check the length INSIDE the triangular frame(measured from the crank to the seat) should be around 14"/36cm.
    You can get away with a bit less but it's not adviseable(routine maintenance,etc.)
    Some ppl do major mods to get their engine to fit & that's fine if u know what your doing & u do it properly.
  4. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    I agree with everything srdavo said, except one; you don't need to have your front brake and clutch lever on the same side. You can just move your front brake to the right side. You can stagger the two levers so that one hand pulls them both at the same time.

    This works great. Though it does get a bit tough on the hand on long, steep downhills. But it's bearable.
  5. Jason74

    Jason74 New Member

    Thanks for the input!

    I will hold off on purchasing this bike until I look into things a little bit further.

    What is the potential problem with an aluminum frame? Will it just be a matter of potential damage to the frame, or will affect the way the bike feels under power?

    Instead of the above mentioned bike, I am considering buying the Huffy Cranbrook Cruiser. It looks like others on this forum have used this bike with success. However, I am a little concerned about the brake setup. I would like to add at least a front brake, however, can a brake be added to that particular fork? What are my options?

    Thanks a bunch!
  6. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Hey Jason,

    Softer metal, thinner tubular walls....aluminum is built for lightness, and the speeds we hit, the high 20's to low 30's, on our *****y public asphalt, quadruple to shaking factor.

    Cro-Alloy or Steel, about 10 pounds heavier in the frame, hold up better in the long run.
  7. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Good thinking, BGW!!!!