Using Copper coat on head gasket

[Al.Fisherman]

Years ago, back in the 60's and 70's head gaskets were made like these on the bike motors, thin metal, no coating. We used Copper Coat on them until the self sealing gaskets came about. I blew a head gasket yesterday (stock studs) and will mod to grade 8.8 bolts on the head and studs on exhaust, (supply house had bolts only no studs). Two questions...Has anyone used bolts replacing the head studs, is there anyone that uses Copper Coat, and do you feel there is a difference vs no sealer. Although I wouldn't use Locktite (blue) on the bolts but will on the exhaust manifold...how tough would it be to remove a bolt/stud with blue vs red.

 

[mountain80]

I changed my studs out to grade 12.8 and use a thinner handmade copper gasket. After 3 or 4 retorques it is tight as a drum no need for copper coat. If you use red loctite it will require heat to remove. Heres a trick i use as well: when cutting the studs to length I make the length installed so that they are as high as the top of the fins so they will maybe help a smidge to disperse a little heat, also use hardened washers and nuts and everything will stay nice and tight.

 

[GearNut]

Blue versus red.
Blue: common service removable.
Red: special tools or techniques are required.
That said I have used red many, many times when I neede to secure a fastner I knew I would not need to "service" for years and years to come.
I also have rarely needed to use any tool more special that a combination wrench or ratchet and a really hard yank to undo the red.

A word of caution, heat is the best way to soften up Loc-Tite that will not unlock. Common blue or red Loc-Tite used in an exhaust application will soften or entirely melt when used in such an application.
There are a couple of industrial grades made specifically to be used in such an application. They do not melt or soften, actually they only hold on tighter.
To use one of those varieties though you may just as well have welded the stud in place. Short of drilling it out it will never come out, EVER.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

bolts/studs

Now to round off the question I would like some feedback as to the use of bolts vs studs. Has anyone done this and what was the outcome?

 

[Hawaii_Ed]

I have used the spray copper everytime I open my engine, seems like it can only help. Bolts would be fine as long as you get the exact right length. Maybe we can contact ARP and get them to make a head bolt kit for happytime

 

[Al.Fisherman]

cc

I have used the spray copper everytime I open my engine, seems like it can only help. Bolts would be fine as long as you get the exact right length. Maybe we can contact ARP and get them to make a head bolt kit for happytime

I bought the spray can as I couldn't find the ole dabber bottle.. I bought some grade 8.8 bolts (as they didn't have studs..did have all thread in grade 5). They were longer, I cut them down so as not to completely bottom out. Pulls head tight without the two washers or head gasket.
I like the idea of bolts vs studs...one connection vs two. And 4"'s from the BOTTOM of the bolt head to the end of the threads is just right.

 

[h0tr0d]

Bolts are meant to have nuts on the other end. You can replace nuts, they are sacrificial. The reason that I would use studs on everything (the jug/heads, exhaust, intake) is because every time you take a bolt out of that cast jug or casing you risk stripping the tapped threads. Then you have a real problem.

If you use studs they are installed only once and drastically reduce the chance of stripping out the tapped threads in the casing, exhaust or intake. The nut becomes the sacrificial item again.

Just imagine how many times you have taken the nuts off of the exhaust or just tightened them. When you do that you never risk stripping the threads in the casing, just the stud or the nut ( which cost a nickle instead of tapping a new, larger hole in the jug ).

I normally don't write this much, but I hope you take my advise. These jugs are not very tough compared to the grade 2.5, 5 or 8 threads you plan on using.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

.

h0tr0d...point well made. That was something I hadn't thought about, which is most likely why Volkswagen had the same set-up.

 

[Pablo]

I have heard good comments about the copper spray but I have not used it myself. What has worked really well for me is aluminum filled spray paint. I use a can I bought a couple years ago at an industrial supply shop, it's not purpose made for head gaskets, but it seems to have quite a bit of Al in it. Just shake really well, hang the gasket, shake some more and bomb can both sides. Use wet or allow to dry. Make a super seal.

 

[spad4me]

I have heard good comments about the copper spray but I have not used it myself. What has worked really well for me is aluminum filled spray paint. I use a can I bought a couple years ago at an industrial supply shop, it's not purpose made for head gaskets, but it seems to have quite a bit of Al in it. Just shake really well, hang the gasket, shake some more and bomb can both sides. Use wet or allow to dry. Make a super seal.

I live in the middle of nowhere!

I finally bought the coppet gasket paint from auto zone.
Where do you buy the aluminum paint ??

What brand ?
I have ace , lowes, and wallmart.
They only sell krylon which does not even list its ingredients