Vibrated off a few parts

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by jayjmarlo, Dec 1, 2012.

  1. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    Vibrated off a few parts.

    So I built my kit and it ran great, than all the sudden I had limited power looked down and the carb was lose. I tightened it up, it had also rattled lose the air filter, a screw was missing. I'm on my way next thing I know losing power again and strange noise. I look down my exhaust pope is loose and also broken where the exhaust is welded to the pipe and my air filter is gone. I tighten up the exhaust leaving the bottom rattling loose, cover up the cab partially protecting it with a rag by tying it it to the frame since the road is wet and full of street grime. I make it home another 5 miles.

    I ordered a new air filter with the missing cover, also brought the exhaust in to a welding shop they quoted me 20 to weld it. Am tempted to fix it myself with high temp epoxy, found one at the hardware store rated for 500° your thoughts?

    I was thinking id get some thread sealant and clean out the carb and i'm good to go? What do you recommend, lock tight, thread sealant or locking nylon bolts or what specifically to prevent them from rattling loose, will nylon bolts melt? I saw they had a blue and a red tube at the hardware store if thread sealant rated for 300°. The guy said red requires a torch to remove blue can be broken with a wrench. Do they stand up to the temperatures from the exhaust mount? Did I wreck the cab I think street grime definitely got inside. Do I just take it apart and clean with a steal brush and gas?

    Also I now see oil around the head, near the exhaust I think this was from the tale pipe being loose? Just leave it than or is this something else wrong?

    Guess I should have tightened down my bolts better. Ran great while it lasted almost 40 miles before all **** let lose.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 18, 2015

  2. jefuchs

    jefuchs Member

    I can't answer your questions, but I checked muffler prices on ebay, and you might as well buy a new one rather than have it welded. Unless you had an expensive upgraded one. The stock replacement hovers around the $20 range.
     
  3. Anton

    Anton Administrator Staff Member

    Definitely lock tight every bolt you can see. Don't over tighten them because most of them screw into alloy which strips real easy. I lost a few bolts and nuts on my first ride because I was so anxious to try out the bike.

    For the exhaust I think jefuchs answered your questions. It may be easier to get a new one.

    I used locktight on my exhaust screws. I'm not certain if it's meant for hot things like exhausts but it seems to be working fine and can be undone easily if needed.

    Maybe tighten your head bolts too if it's a new engine but the oil was probably just from your exhaust and carby coming loose.

    Remove your carb and the air filter. Get a container and put a bit of petrol in it and then use an old toothbrush to scrub any dirt out of the carb.
     
  4. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Welcome to the Happy Time World! Aren't you happy that you've get to work on your brand new engine?

    Here's some information that will help you set up your engine. Properly setup, it should be good to go. If you rush things and/or impatient, you'll be working on it forever.

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?34942-What-EVERY-NOOB-needs-to-read

    Make sure you have a torque wrench if your going to tighten or replace your headbolts. Make sure it is Inch/Pounds not Foot/ Pounds. You can can buy one cheap from harbor Freight. When tightening nuts and bolts on the engine, be careful or you'll end up snapping off bolt heads or bolts. Replace with quality bolts/nuts whenever possible.

    Your lucky you didn't loose your idle screw. Wrap a wire around it. Purchase an O-ring for your carb and look for posts on how to seal up any air leaks on the carb. Be careful when tightening to carb or you'll end up breaking the intake manifold.

    There is a ton of information on the forum on repairs and tips. Also, look at motorbicycling.com for repairs and help. Do a search and you will be surprised that many others have had the same issues.

    Good Luck and have fun,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
  5. Anton

    Anton Administrator Staff Member

    Hmm yeah I wish I had done this :eek: the engine still goes without an idle screw but it wont idle.
     
  6. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    How exactly do you wrap a wire around the screw? What do you attach it to? Like a leash attached to the frame?

    Also what kind if O ring for the carb I saw copper and rubber at the auto parts store. The rubber was round like a tube not flat like in a hose or faucet, will that work?

    Also I can't find new studs with hardened steal, there are studs with regular steal available, is it worth switching then out out is out the same strength? Where can you get the studs?

    Do you use blue out red lock tight, red says removable with a torch blue with a wrench. Do you seal both ends or just use nylon lock bolts on the outside?

    Anything around the neck of the carb? I was thinking teflon.

    I tried muffler sealant puddy so will see if that holds the muffler together.
     
  7. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Come on Dude, it is posted as a link on the Pre-Installtion guide (#28).

    Whenever, use blue Loctite and don't use Loctite on your idle screw.

    Here's a picture of the O-ring:
    NT carb O ring.JPG

    The studs are difficult to find. Some are 8mm and some are 6mm. Look at Ron's link for parts on the bottom of the Pre-Installation guide that I referred you to.

    Teflon around the neck is going to break down. Do a search and find what product others are using.

    Muffler putty ain't going to work. New muffler or have it welded. J.B. Weld and muffler putty don't work.

    Many of your answers can be found with Google or the limited search engine on this forum. Please teach yourself how to use them and you'll find many of your answers. I've used Google images and found answers to a lot of my questions and so can you. I know this is new to you, but help yourself and not always depend upon others for answers because sometimes those answers from others may be costly to your pocket book.

    Good Luck,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
  8. V 35

    V 35 Member

    Yes, Blue Loctite [ now comes in a paste, dispensed like lip balm, no waste ] on everything, except exhaust.
    Exhaust heat melts loctite . Use doubled plain nuts, run engine, let cool, gently tighten first nuts, second
    nut buts up against nut holding manifold flange. Red loctite is for studs, let cure 24 hrs after installation,
    and before tightening nuts. The RED is for things you won't remove again like studs and mounts.
     
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    but you can remove things that have red loc tite on them if you really need to. You just have to apply heat to melt the loc tite.
     
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