Vintage J-Model Whizzer

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[/QUOTE]I'm hoping the you folks may be able offer advice and suggestions as I get further into this project.

Paula[/QUOTE]


You're far too modest. The advice giving-and-taking is sure to be in the opposite direction.

But this is a great thread. It's a beautiful machine and you're gonna have a real jewel on your hands when it's done.
 
I'm hoping the you folks may be able offer advice and suggestions as I get further into this project.

Paula

You're far too modest. The advice giving-and-taking is sure to be in the opposite direction.

But this is a great thread. It's a beautiful machine and you're gonna have a real jewel on your hands when it's done.

I appreciate that, Bluegoatwoods. I do have a lot of experience in many areas, but this is my first project involving a Whizzer. Everything I've learned about them has been from studying the archives of Motoredbikes.com (and "that other site"), as well as a few other on-line and printed sources. So actually, there has already been a tremendous flow of Whizzer-specific advice and suggestions in my direction from persons more experienced than me.

Naturally, I hope that others can benefit from the information presented in this thread, and I thank you for the wonderful feedback.

Paula
 
Compression Release (continued)

In addition to the exploded view of the compression release mechanism that was posted earlier, I also made a cross-sectional drawing. It gives a clearer view of how the oilite bearing and O-ring are positioned relative to the other parts. Click on the preview below to open the full drawing:



The first step is to machine the height of the boss to .562", which provides for the .500" long bearing, and the .062" clearance for the O-ring. Then the hole is enlarged to .375" dia. with a reamer:

CR03.jpg


Next the oilite bushing can be pressed into place, leaving one end of the bushing flush with the outer surface of the boss:

CR05.jpg


Now we can check the fit of the silicone O-ring in the recess created on the back side:

CR06.jpg


CR07.jpg


As mentioned earlier, O-rings are actually made a bit larger than nominal size so that they will compress slightly in use, enabling them to seal properly. In this case, the O-ring fits snugly in the recess, and should seal fine against the .250" dia. actuator shaft.

To hold up for any length of time, the actuator needs to be hardened, and so needs to be made of some kind of tool steel. I used 9/16" dia. O-1 drill rod. The "O" stands for "oil hardening", which means that this alloy is designed to be quenched in oil for hardening. More about this later. The first step is to turn one end down to .250" to make the shaft. It's a good idea to leave a small radius between the shaft and head end, for strength. The end is then drilled and tapped for the 5-40 lever-retaining screw:

CR08.jpg


After tapping, I removed the length of drill rod from the lathe, and used a cut-off saw to separate the part from the stock piece:

CR09.jpg


The part was then returned to the lathe for facing off the head end, and then transferred to the mill for notching:

CR12.jpg


Here again, it's a good idea to leave a small radius in the corner of the notch. This avoids what engineers refer to as a "stress riser", which can lead to breakage of the part. In this case, I'm using a cutter with a slight radius on it, which serves the purpose nicely.

With the notch cut, and the rough edges filed off, the part is re-mounted with the shaft end sticking up for cutting a couple more notches:

CR13.jpg


These notches will engage a corresponding slot that will be cut in the lever.

(to be continued...)
 
Paula i do like your sense of humor, and all the great info,pics that you have given us. hope to see more!!

Ray
 
Compression Release (continued)

As mentioned above, the actuator needs to be heat treated. For a small part like this, torch heating works fine. I used an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the actuator to a medium cherry-red color (about 1500°F). This temperature should be held for a minute or two -- keep watching the color -- and avoid heating to an orange color. I use used crankcase oil for quenching. You need to have enough to keep the oil from reaching its flash point. For this size part, two quarts is enough, but more is better. Plunge the heated part into the oil and swish it around a bit. There will be smoke, so have plenty of ventilation. The part is cool enough when it no longer smokes when withdrawn from the oil. The actuator will now have a rough, crusty appearance...

CR14.jpg


...but it can be polished up nicely later. The hardness at this point is in the range of 64-65 on the Rockwell C scale. (For reference, a typical file is around 60C.)

In the as-quenched state, most tool steels are too brittle for use, and are likely to exhibit signs of microfracture soon after quenching. For this reason, hardened tool steels are "drawn" or "tempered" immediately after quenching. This involves re-heating the metal to a specific temperature, and holding at that temperature long enough for the necessary microstructural changes to take place. For our purposes, the kitchen oven serves well.

Because the tempering process needs to start as soon as possible after quenching, pre-heat the oven to 400°F before beginning heat treatment. As soon as the quenched part is cool enough to handle, wipe off any leftover oil, and place it in the pre-heated oven. The part should be left in the oven for a half hour or so, though longer doesn't hurt. Shut the oven off and let the part cool inside the oven until it can be handled. Hardness should now be in the range of 61C-62C, and will have the necessary combination of hardness and toughness. The part can be polished back to a bright appearance with Scotchbrite, or similar.

With the actuator completed, a new lever was made from 1/16" stainless steel. Blue layout dye was applied to make things more visible. A small slot was milled to fit the flats cut on the actuator, and a hole drilled for the cable clamp:

CR17.jpg


Next, the lever was sawed, filed, and sanded to shape. The cable clamp was machined from a piece of stainless rod (no pictures taken), which pretty much completes the process. "SuperLube" teflon grease was applied to the O-ring and actuator prior to assembly. Then the torsion spring and lever are attached using the 5-40 x 1/4" phillips-head screw:

CR10.jpg


Here's an assembled view of the compression release from the back side...

CR15.jpg


...and front side:

CR16.jpg


Ready to be bolted to the engine!

Paula
 
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Engine Stand

Well, it's getting toward the end of Summer, and I'm getting closer to putting this Whizzer engine together. Unfortunately, things are also starting to heat up at work, and my spare time will be very sparse in the coming months. Oh well, this is a spare time project, and the proper amount of time for its completion is exactly how long it takes. The important thing is to relax and enjoy the process, and so far I have.

Seeing how some other Whizzer enthusiasts had made engine stands got me to thinking that I might like to do the same. Such a stand would serve to hold the engine securely during certain assembly operations, and for display and testing purposes (and also just for the fun of building it.) I took inspiration from various designs I have seen on-line, including the one displayed by our own "nutz4vws":

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?34759-what-year-is-this-pacemaker&p=332826#post332826

One design that I saw even used a section cut from an old bicycle, so that the engine could be mounted in exactly the same fashion as it is in actual use. The bicycle section was then welded to an old bumper jack base. A clever idea! Another design was the epitome of simplicity: a bent U-shaped bracket mounted to a piece of 2 x 4 -- just the ticket if all you want to do is display the engine, as it only attaches to the lower mounting point on the crankcase.

I thought about doing a 3-point mounting design, but finally decided that attaching the engine by the bottom and rear mounting points was sufficient. For stability, the stand has two 9" angle-iron crossmembers with removable rubber-bumper feet on the bottom. The rubber feet can be quickly removed, leaving holes for bolting the stand to a bench or other surface, if needed. While the lower slotted mounting bracket is fixed, the upper bracket is removable, and has a height adjustment to accomodate slight variations in engine dimensions. Here is a CAD view of the design:

CAD.jpg


If anyone is interested, here are detailed drawings of the stand, free to use:

Front View

Top View

Upper Bracket

Height Adjuster

The main part of the stand consists of 1-1/4" square steel tubing, and 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/16" angle iron. The 45-degree gusset which supports the vertical frame member is 3/16" thick. The "height adjuster" part was sawed from a piece of 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/8" angle iron.

The first part I made was the upper bracket. It's also the most difficult, with the milled out portion on the bottom. Fortunately, I had a few tricks up my sleeve. :cool: To form the 1/2" radius, a piece of scrap material can be clamped alongside the part so that a 1" drill forms the radius:

STAND01.jpg


Next the part is transferred to a drill-press vise, clamped in the cut-off saw, and the major portion of the material can be sawed away:

STAND02.jpg


The saw-cut area was then easily smoothed up with a light pass from a face mill. All that remained to finish the part was milling the slot for the 5/16" bolt, and drilling/tapping the 3/8-16 hole for the height adjusting bolt. The remaining parts are pretty simple, mostly by being sawed to size.

The welding is straightforward. I have a fair amount of welding experience, but was my first actual project using my new Miller welder, so it took some extra time getting used to the way it welds. As a consequence, some snag grinding of the finished product was needed to clean things up. Still, it went rather well, I think. Here's a view of the welded-up frame, and the machined upper bracket:

STAND03.jpg


The welded frame was given a good solvent cleaning, followed by a couple coats of Rustoleum "Painter's Touch Ultra Cover" gray sandable primer. The topcoat is Dupli-Color red engine enamel "with ceramic". This stuff is easy to apply, and dries to a very nice finish. The upper bracket was deburred and sent out for black oxide coating (I have a "connection" at work!) I allowed about a week for the paint to dry thoroughly before assembly. Here are a couple shots of the finished stand with the Whizzer crankcase installed:

STAND04.jpg


STAND05.jpg


Now if I can just get the engine finished... :D

Paula
 
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That is certainly a nicely design motor stand Paula! i'm going to keep a pic of it next to this one if that is OK?


Thanks Ray
 

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I've posted some on the other forum. will do more there.

Ray
 

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