well ****, kit doesnt fit my bike frame??

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by stackz, Oct 3, 2008.

  1. stackz

    stackz New Member

    I dont get it, the bike is a pretty standard $50 walmart mountain bike with 26" tires and pretty common looking mountain bike frame...

    the engine wont physically fit inside the frame. gotta be a specific type of mountain bike??

  2. stackz

    stackz New Member

    ok got it but I have to notch the frame (dent) it to clear the mounting studs.

    gotta figure out how to extend the studs on the gas tank too...my frame is chunky :???:
  3. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    if it don't fit -- then it don't fit ---- bummer
    that reminds me of the OJ saying -- we wish not to go there !!!!!

    at least you only spent 50 bucks --- the bummer could have been worse

    but it does make it hard to ride that thing stackz ---------------------- MM
  4. stackz

    stackz New Member

    well I think it MAY be saveable.

    I Pulled the engine mounting studs and the spark plug out and it fit on the frame. I then just swapped sides with the mounting studs and it fits right in there.

    but it wont fit with the spark plug. I think I can solve this by using a low profile marine plug which will give me the 1/2" space I need.

    what kind of angle can these engines operate at and what angle is too extreme for the chain drive??

    If I could tilt the engine forward a little and kick the back up a little, it would fit perfect but I dont know if that would be bad or not??

  5. stackz

    stackz New Member

    I think I have it in backwards after looking it over more :rolleyes:
  6. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    yes -- that's what it looks like

    makes it hard to ride that thing mountainman
  7. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Granted it is in backwards, but sitting the correct way, does it have room for the pedal crank?

    That is an aweful small frame you have there....
  8. stackz

    stackz New Member

    no yet, got it on correctly and it fits pretty darn good.

    now I'm completely stuck on the clutch cable. got the handle installed but cant for the life of me tell by the grainy pic in the instructions how to assemble the spring portion to the clutch??

    oh yeah, my clutch points out perpendicular to the frame and then swings to parallel with the frame.

    should I loosen the swing arm and move it inward?? I'd hate to keep bashing my leg on that thing...
  9. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    This photo should help. The large spring goes over the cable housing to keep it away from the engine. The other spring is useless, it only makes pulling the clutch harder. The position of the clutch is where it should start. As you pull the clutch handle it will move toward the center of the bike. Hope this helps.

    Attached Files:

  10. stackz

    stackz New Member

    ok one more question for the clutch. how long should the motion be and should it be HARD the whole time?? only ask because the following two pics show all the free travel it has where it can free swing..

    basically free swing it in and then set it and only have a LITTLE bit of pull or what??


    as for the engine. I got it in, I did take that extra bracket and cut off the initial U portion for the back engine bracket so that the engine wouldnt vibrate left/right. had to flatten out the lower engine bracket so it would fit over the two studs which I had to bend out a little and then hit back in some to get around the frame. plug is easy to get in/out now.

    gas tank went on with no trouble.

    ahhh the intake manifold. I modified the air filter housing internally to get some more room. and then I had to whip out the butane torch on the metal throat and bend it down a little as well as cut 1/4" off the throat neck and the carb fits in there now.


    now I'm just trying to figure out how to cut the chain as I have NEVER done this before. I tried cutting the first link off with my bolt cutters but the center dowel wont come out??

    any kinda picture tutorials on how to do this properly before I break out the hacksaw??
  11. stackz

    stackz New Member

    ok got the clutch figured out, thanks for the pic/explanation :smile:

    now I'm stuck on the chain cutting...
  12. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    The clutch is difficult to pull, which is why I suggested to not use the spring between the cable adjuster and the clutch arm.

    On the carb. The carb must be sitting straight up and down. Because the float inside will not work on its side.

    For the chain, go buy a chain breaker. You can get them at most bike or motorcycle shops.
  13. stackz

    stackz New Member

    ok well then it looks like I'm done for the night. I'll go grab a chain breaker tomorrow...give me a chance to get a better seat too.

    as for the carb, you are 100% right, I had a brain fart with that one. went back and looked and can even see the drain port at the bottom of the bowl.:rolleyes:

    looks like I'll be getting some steel pipe and plate tomorrow and making my own straighter and shorter intake pipe. I shall dub it a "short ram intake" :p

    will post pics when I either make progress or go mental and burn the bike down :evil:
  14. stackz

    stackz New Member

    alright well I got everything bolted to the bike and got the chain adjusted properly so its not falling off anymore.

    now I've got a problem with fuel leaking at the fuel valve and a no start condition.

    how can I test to see if the plug is firing?? I was thinking of lifting the back wheel off the ground and rotating it with the plug in my hand pointed at a bolt on the engine (like I do when I test for fire on a normal 4stroke). I would hope the brand new magneto isnt bad...

    also, on the carb, which position is choke and which is run?? up or down??

    I'm draining the gas tank and I'm going to open up the fuel valve and see if it is the valve itself or the crappy red seal. I think its the seal and if thats the case then once it all dries out I've got some gas proof rtv I'm going to put on the threads as well as on both sides of the seal to stop the leaking.
  15. stackz

    stackz New Member

    alright got the fuel sorted out. no more leaks. used teflon tape on the tank thread portion and zipties on the connectors pulled down tight. no more leaks :grin:

    but still got the no start problem ugh...

    I'm getting good fuel at least into the fuel bowl.
  16. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Unhook the kill switch and make things as easy as possible....

    Pull the spark plug out, lay it on the head and check for spark.....
  17. stackz

    stackz New Member

    it was flooded out. basically pedaled as fast as I possible could then popped the clutch and pulled the throttle and it came to life, sputtered a bunch and then smoothed out and has been able to crank easily since then :cool:
  18. eleseur96020

    eleseur96020 Member

    i think that is too vertical, you will most likely have some problems.

    1. the chain will hit the bottom of the gear cover and bolt.
    2. you're carb is sideways, it will leak gas everywhere. This kind of carb will not function sideways (the float).