Western Flyer?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Guest, Apr 20, 2007.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    What can you tell me about one?
    Found one up the road for 35 dollars, not sure if the engine will fit it.
    Looks to be from the 60's....
     

  2. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Thirty Five dollars is exactly what I paid for an early 1970's model, that didn't have a speck of rust. The frame seems as durable.

    [​IMG]


    It had the original leather seat. I replaced the tires and tubes, and if spoke patterns are important, (like for the GEBE spoke ring), there is a different pattern on those pre '70s bikes.

    [​IMG]

    All around comfortable ride, with out a lot of squeaks or creaks.
     
  3. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    I don't understand... Every antique, classic, and vintage American bike I've messed about with has been a standard 3 cross pattern. My modern bike junk has also been standard 3 cross lacing. Could you elaborate on this for me?
    Also, 35 is a good deal in the current market for a vintage middleweight Western Flyer...
    I got my current one Western Flyer middleweight, late fifties/early sixties) for 25 and it was pretty rough around the edges to start with...
    I'd go for it . :evil:
     
  4. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    As a really neo-phyte to bikes, I can only relay what someone more knowledgeable than I "told me".

    When I first laid the GEBE spokering on the WesternFlyer spokes (this is BEFORE I started switching all rear wheels to 12 gauge) , three spokes missed the notches by up to 1/8" to 1/4" an inch, which would require "severe bend-age" to snap in.

    I called Dennis, and he was the one who told me in the 1970's there was a "standardization done" on that basic spoke pattern, and if I swapped out rears it was irrelevant, but if I tried it on old classic wheels, I would have to do some hacksawing and super-gluing to make it reliable.

    So, it isn't the pattern, but the measurements of the spoke holes that changed a few fractions.....
     
  5. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    OOOOhhh. I gotcha.
    Cool. 8)
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I got it today.
    Funky handlebars.
    I like the way they feel when adjusted so the ends point down and the goosneck is raised up a bit.
    I does have the original leather seat too-nice! :D
    The guy who had it put new gnarly mountainbike style tires on it.
     
  7. Guest

    Guest Guest

    After a looong day of mowing and building on the "apartment", I sat down with the Western Auto Stores Western Flyer Grand Trophy and started putting it together.

    First order of business was to throw away the "manual" that came with the kit, then second was to whip out the Dremel w/fiber cutting disk and mutilate that vintage fender so the chain would clear, did a nice job if I do say so myself.

    Got the engine mounted and wired up, throttle mounted to the bars (after much gnashing of the teeth and using a half round file to ream out the plastic throttle part so it would fit over the bar end).

    Removed, "SealAll-ed" and re-installed the intake to jug gasket/manifold and tightened it down. I didn't have to "mate the surfaces" they were pretty smooth.

    Realized the kill switch wasn't hooked up, so I undid all my fancy tape job and stuck it in the blue wire connection and re-taped it all back up. I mounted it on the gooseneck, not the bars, just to be different. Left a loop of wire so when the bars turn there is no pulling or binding, may re-do that later.

    All that's left is the clutch lever/cable/chain/ect, gas tank, exhaust and the rear sprocket.

    About an hour and a half total so far. Thought it would take longer. :D

    Not the prettiest girl at the dance, but she's sure got character.

    Photos to follow..........
     
  8. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Awesome!
    I can't wait to see pic.s!
     
  9. Guest

    Guest Guest

    O.K., still not done, but I only have pieced together maybe four hours total time.

    Today I opened up the mag side and cleaned all the crud/metal shavings/ect. out, opened up the gear side and put a tiny bit of lithium grease on the dry gears.
    I stripped the exhaust stud before it ever got tight and so went to the auto parts store and bought some M6X1.00 mm pitch bolts, cut the heads off those to make studs, installed the "studs" with sleeve retainer/thread locker, and got the exhaust on.

    Then the fun began and hasn't ended yet. I took the rear wheel off and found the bearings needed grease, so before I put the sprocket on, I opened up the guts to the rear wheel. Just as I had it all loose, daughter no. four yelled out the window to me; "Hey Dad!" I looked up and all hell broke loose. I dropped the whole works on the ground and made a bit of a jigsaw puzzle for myself. (been 30+ years since I had a coaster brake wheel apart) I said "I think I'm in over my heads here", to which she replied; "Yeah, but are you having fun?"

    Well, yes, yes I am. :D

    O.K., back out to work on it some more. I am not sure I know what I'm doing at this point, but I'll just keep going......
     
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Alrighty then.

    Got the brakes greased and back together.

    The sprocket was no biggie after I ground the dust cover flange off so the sprocket fit over it. I made a wheel stand out of a bucket that helped the process-[​IMG]

    The coaster break arm was a biotch, To avoid re-living that nightmare, I'll just say a five pound hammer, vice, and torch took care of that.

    The chain tensioner was no fun and a re-education in geometry and dislexia. I got that all done though, just took two hours.

    Even though the sprocket ran true with no run out axially or radially, the chain loosens and tightens a bit as the chain goes 'round. I pushed the bike around the yard as fast as I could run and nothing came off. I'll keep an eye on that, might have to re-do the sprocket, even though it seemed fine the first time.

    All that's left is the tank/carb and the clutch lever/cable.

    Stay tuned.
     
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

    No work on the bike today- pouring rain all day and I have to push the other toys outside to have enough room to work..... :( :(
     
  13. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Are you working at my place without my knowing about it
    LOL
    I feel that man, I've got the same situation here. And when it's not raining so I could move the other toys out to work, there's other stuff to be done before it rains again...
    But, it's fun anyway, no matter what!
     
  14. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The thing is, I have a "big" Suzuki, a "little" Yamaha scooter, a rare 1961 Capriolo 100cc motorcycle, four bicycles, a 45 year old orange tree that resides in the garage all winter, a full wood shop, plus various model aircraft (R/C) that use up the garage. On top of that, I just finished a big room that I built inside the garage as part of the addtion to the garage...there is also left over lumber and drywall from the project hanging around.

    Sooooo, right now I have zero "extra" room to spread out all the tools/parts/ ect until I pull all the bikes out.

    Oh, the price of joy! :D

    After I go to the principals breakfast with daughter number 4, change the rotor on daughter number 3's car, and put the belt on daughter number 2's truck, I will finish the bike TODAY.

    Pictures to follow this evening, I promise!
     
  15. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Check it out-[​IMG]

    Got it going today. The thing was sooo rough when it first started, thought it might explode....then after ten minutes of break in, it smoothed out nicely, still has a long way to go. Of course, that's with a 20/1 mix too.I'll go to 40/1 after the first tank.

    The kill switch crapped out (tech term there) after I shut it off the third time. I took it off and threw it across the street where all "bad things" end up.

    I'll ride it awhile, then probably take it apart and paint it.

    Mrs. Joe said; "You aren't going to sell that one." I said; "It depends on how the next one turns out....... :D
     
  16. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    Do what I did with my kill switch.

    Bought a small pushbutton switch from radioshack, ran a wire from the white wire to the button, and then one from the other terminal to the barrel adjuster on a brake lever, and used a hose clamp to keep it tight, It's never need any adjustments or repairs since, very reliable, and safe way to kill the engine.

    Heres a pic to show which button to buy, and where I mounted mine. [​IMG]

    The flip toggle under the red kill switch is to turn my lights on/off.
     
  17. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Joe, you should change your name to "Gadget man"! Would you like an altimeter and a rate of climb indicator? Just kidding....but then again. :D

    I killed the engine with the choke this last time out, seemed fine.

    I will eventually install a "regular" kill switch, I have a couple around here from motorcycles.
     
  18. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    I am gadget man! I must have more guages and switches!

    I have a mini control panel that controls turn signals and brake lights already made, but I can't mount it without having the actual lights in place.

    You should see my guitar/amp. Many...many...gauges and switches (added by me)
     
  19. Guest

    Guest Guest

    :lol: :lol: :lol:
     
  20. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Got around fifty miles on it and no adjustments or loose anything. I did pull off the front wheel and it was waaay out of balance, so I removed the relector and use some solder to wrap the spokes at the rim and got the wheel pretty close to perfect, which is good enough. I greased the bearings and axle (red grease, turn black when it needs to be changed, or something is grinding away inside making metal dust).

    I put the wheel back on and took it for a ride. It was much smoother and quieter. Guess a lot of the noise came from the front wheel shaking so much.

    Rode it about 15 miles, I discovered if I run it at a high idle, that's about the top speed I can practically pedal. If I pull the clutch lock when I'm going down hill and coast back down to my "pedalling speed" on the flats, I can probably reach 200 mpg! :lol:
     
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