What EVERY NOOB needs to read.

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Al.Fisherman, Aug 7, 2011.

  1. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Welcome NOOBS...I was one myself, been here done that..let's see if I look in my closet I may find a "T" shirt. Have learned the hard way...experience...before joining any forums.

    These are the things that I do, I see that others such as the seals (which I've never had one go bad) mentioned. All these mods or replacements are most likely less then $50.00. Choose what works for you, ignore the rest, but here you have them.

    1. Unpack engine, familiarize your self with them.
    2. Check for any missing parts. Depending who you buy from you maybe out of luck. Two sellers come to mind. Luckyearlybird and BGF.
    3. Remove head
    4. Mill head (flat glass and 230 (or finer) grit sand paper. Rub gasket surface to insure it is flat. Check the cylinder also. This will ensure that you have a good gasket surface. Eliminates blown head gaskets by a large percentage.
    5. Tap cylinder stud holes to insure they are taped to the bottom. Some engines aren’t taped to the bottom. This can be a problem with the studs pulling out..
    6. Discard all studs and nuts. Studs the length of the cylinder are hard to find. Fastener supply has metric all thread. There are a number of vendors that have kits, including myself. But replace them.
    7. Replace studs with Metric 8.8 (US Grade 5) Replace nuts with locking nuts. 8mm studs are either 1.0 or 1.25 thread, 6mm studs are 1.0 thread. 8mmX1.0 is not common, but I have 1 engine with them. Do this because the Chinese hardware is junk and prone to strip or shear off.
    8. Replace spark plug with a NGK or any good brand.
    9. Replace spark plug wire and boot (check with lawnmower supply) or rob from old lawnmower. Use wire core lead. The stock is junk and WILL cause problems down the road.
    10. Mount the engine properly, no gaps between the bike tubes and engine mounts.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Engine Mounting/ This will also help to keep the studs from snapping off.
    11. Torque 8mm to 120 to 175 INCH POUNDS (max for cast aluminum is 204 inch pounds).
    12. Torque 6mm to 60-70 INCH POUNDS (max on these are 75 inch pounds).
    13. I install cylinder studs with lock tite, and let set overnight. Optional, I do it to all my builds.
    14. I coat the head gasket with Copper Kote (I coat each side twice and let dry)
    15. May need to bend exhaust pipe for crank or frame clearance. Recommend using heat. There are other methods, but you won’t hear that from me.
    16. Remove or cap magneto white wire off. This is used for low watt lights…it won’t work with a light you can see with, believe me.
    17. Re solder blue wire on magneto. Factory has had bad connections, (cold solder joints).
    18. Wiring. BLACK Coil wire to BLACK CDI wire, BLUE coil wire to BLUE CDI wire.
    19. When hooking the kill switch, don’t be concerned with wire colors. Hook one wire to the black wires, and the other wire to the blue wires. (See # 21)
    20. Make sure all wires have a good connection (solder best) and use tape or better yet heat shrink.
    21. Hook up kill switch wires AFTER you get engine running. This will eliminate a defective switch should you have trouble starting the engine.
    22. Try not to drill holes in the bike frame. Weakens the frame, I did one and the frame split in two.
    23. Do away with the clutch cable routing; there are a number of options.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Homemade Mods/
    24. On my kit the rag joint had gauge (Metric) 8.8 bolts, If not replace them. I replaced the nuts with lock nuts.
    25. I sealed the wires coming from the magneto out of the engine with RTV.
    26. Place a “O” ring in the carburetor throat. NAPA has an assortment. Buy them each.
    27. Some say replace the axle with a better one. Never had an axle bend on me.
    28. Use thin wire (I use Stainless safety wire).and wrap around the idle screw and secure to the carburetor.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Homemade Mods/
    29. For coaster brakes…Some say trim the cap, but I don't like it.
    ‪Bearing cap mod‬‏ - YouTube or a file of sorts can be used.
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2011

  2. nvmextc

    nvmextc New Member

    Nice post, very helpful, I've put a few bikes together and picked up a few new things from this.
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2011
  3. fanatic

    fanatic New Member

    Thanks for the post. I will use this as my check off sheet when I set up my bike.
  4. sp454e

    sp454e Member

    i like this
  5. Rapidrob

    Rapidrob Member

    Thank you for the info and your time on this article.
  6. ballentinesr

    ballentinesr New Member

    Al, thanks a lot. Any idea where I can get the clutch cable rerouting gizmo? One of the first things I thought when I opened the kit was "How in the devil is that supposed to work?" Thanks, Jon
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012
  7. Zulufoot

    Zulufoot New Member

    Spark plugs

    Well i'm having no end of trouble getting my new motor to run, I ran it twice for 5 minutes letting it cool down fully in between, 3rd attempt was a week ago and ive been trying every day since.

    I got a reference in another post for spark plug replacements and they said NGK C6HSA, so I bought 2 yesterday only to find that when I got home they are wrong, they have the narrow diameter thread.

    Can anyone tell me what NGK plug to get in replacement for the LD Z8C please?
  8. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    NGK B5HS Spark Plug - hot
    NGK B6HS Spark Plug
    NGK B7HS Spark Plug
    NGK B8HS Spark Plug - cold

    extended tip
    NGK BP5HS Spark Plug - hot
    NGK BP6HS Spark Plug
    NGK BP7HS Spark Plug
    NGK BP8HS Spark Plug - cold
    jason munyon likes this.
  9. pyratenomad

    pyratenomad New Member

    Great list. Exactly the info that I was looking for. Thanks!
  10. 577-Jersey

    577-Jersey New Member

    Good info here..what about checking crank connector rod torque,,i know the case needs to be spilt,,but have you ever had a problem with the bottom end on these if not checked,Ive never looked at one?
  11. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    Aw, shucks it figures I'd find this only after nearly completing my first install. Do I really have to take it off the bike again? It took like 4 tries to get it on there. Then I have to take it apart and sand some engine parts? Holy cow. Say it ain't so.

    Here's the bike now:

    As much as I dislike the idea, it came with two rusty, uh, what look like small lug nuts here:


    So, I'm thinking better safe than sorry and I should just do as suggested and take it all apart and get new bolts and nuts and gaskets and everything. But, is this really necessary now? Maybe I could at least break it in before something blows and I can take it all apart then?

  12. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    Okay, sorry for being a noob. I'm sure you guys can imagine how finding out I had to overhaul a brand new engine was a little upsetting. But, actually the whole time I've been putting it on the bike in the back of my head I've been wondering if this engine would ever work, judging by the level of craftsmanship. Glad my wife got it for about half price!

    So, I'm already at it. Thanks for the great post! I wish I'd found it sooner.

  13. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    I have some questions about the some of the tips if you don't mind.

    Here's a pic of what I'm asking about.

    1. By replace all the studs does that include the studs for the muffler and carb and both mounting points?

    2. Does that brass colored bolt in the picture count as something that should be replaced? There are lots of those.

    3. Is there a trick to getting the new studs back in and tight without scratching them or messing up the threads? I assume it doesn't matter how they come out. Vice grips?

    4. I found two gasket like things in here, a metal one and one out of gasket material. Which one is the "head gasket" and what is the other thing called?

  14. ChiefGeek

    ChiefGeek New Member

    Noob here too, but I can tell you the regular gasket goes on first, against the bottom assembly, then you slide the cylinder head over the piston, then the metal gasket goes on, and finally the top of the head. Hope this helps. :cool:
  15. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    It's nice to get a reply so soon. But, I took note of which went where when I took it apart. Any idea which is technically the head gasket? The gasket? Or the metal thing? Both?

    Update: Okay, I'm pretty sure they mean the metal one when referring to the "head gasket".

    My next question would then be, "Can I get some quality gasket material and replace both of these with it? Or, does this top one have to stay metal?
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  16. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    Here's another question for the OP. Is it necessary to break down the engine to the point of taking the two halves apart to replace all the gaskets? Or, is it enough to replace all the gaskets except that main one in the center?
  17. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    Without knowledge & experience, splitting the cases is a good way to knock the crank out of true.
  18. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    Thanks. I really didn't want to have to "split the case" and I haven't done this since I was about 16, about 16 years ago and I had my Dad to help back then.

    So, if I understand the OP, as for replacement parts, I just need to replace all the gaskets (aside from splitting the case and that gasket), all the nuts, studs and cover plate bolts with quality hardware? oh and the spark plug.

    I think I understand this part now unless anyone has anything to add. Thanks again.
  19. Lucknuts

    Lucknuts Member

    Holy Bolts Batman, that was hard. A PITA if I ever had one. Even the guy at Fastenall was confused. Though they're usually confused at stores here. Still, nobody had anything like these bolts in grade 5 or above.

    What the heck to do? I know. It's all confusing like there's some mini industry supplying these freaky nuts and bolts. And, what if one breaks? Order online again? Better order a dozen just to be sure huh?

    I got a tap set for normal US threads for like $10 a few weeks back for my Hotsabi project and so I just freaking made real threads in the aluminum to hold real bolts. Problem solved and future solved too.

    It turns out that 8mm is just about the same as 5/16, only their threadings are all off. But, all you have to do is tap a 5/16 18 thread into the 8mm holes and then tap a 1/4 20 into the 6mm holes. You can get bolts at the hardware store (though you may not find threaded rods for studs and have to hacksaw off some heads to make studs) and you'll always be able to get new parts at the local store.

    Oh and of course red thread lock for the studs. Plus, don't forget you can make them whatever length you want.
  20. doug christensen

    doug christensen New Member

    Lots of good info here. Thank you for all the effort in putting it together.