What is a good speedometer to buy?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by T Rock, May 10, 2010.

  1. T Rock

    T Rock New Member

    I bought a speedometer for my bike (Bell) and it seems when the engine is running the meter malfunctions. When I put it on my bike before the engine was installed it worked fine and now that the engine is on it, it just refuses to work, anybody have any suggestions on a better speedometer that the engine electrical system might not interfere with?

  2. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Many of us have been through that drama. I started out with a Chinese 'Sunding' ($8) speedo from eBay and had the same experience as you. I tried shielding etc, to no avail.
    Eventually, I bought a 'Cateye' wired speedo and haven't had a problem since.
    Apparently, the 'Schwinn' speedos work OK too.
  3. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member


    Good to know i had no idea. Hope walmart sells Schwin speedos.
    I had bought an O'neil bike helmet with built in speakers and what a dissapointment at store had a try me demo that sounded good (audio) but when hooked up to cd player audio was so weak had to have volume cranked and still could barly hear with no background nose. The demo audio devise hooked up to helmet must of had an amplifier in it. So i just dont use the speakers,but helmet is comfortable.
  4. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    I got a schwinn spedo at walmart for $ 7.99 a red one !!!
    I works great !!!!
    You can get more expensive one's but why ???
  5. I also got a swhinn speedo for $10 at walmart,but yeah they reset themselfs when starting the engine,unless you mount the speedo 4-5"s in front of the handle bars on a mount of somekind like i did. I used a plastic mount for a reflector to connect to handle bars and a piece of plastic or metal 4-5"s long and plastic tied the speedo on the end.
  6. T Rock

    T Rock New Member

    Ok, I got the speedo to work properly. I moved the wires from the kill switch away from the speedo wire coming up from the sensor. I then shielded the kill switch wires in a plastic automotive covering and now it works flawlessly...is that a real word? but it works now and thats all I care about. But the sad news is that my top speed was only 26.4 mph :( I need to start playing around with it, want it to hit at least 30mph! Think i need to loose some weight, im tipping the scales at 213lbs.
  7. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    26mph / 213lbs isn't bad. Still, a bit of fine-tuning and you'll get 30mph.

    The instructions for my Cateye speedo suggested running the sensor wires up the front brake cable. I did that and haven't had a problem.

    I put the cheap 'Sunding' speedo on my electric bike and it works fine while riding, but was mysteriously resetting while parked in the garage.
    A few days ago I figured out that my compressor was causing the resets. (I park the electric bike right beside it.)
    These electronic speedos can be touchy.
  8. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I've had perfect success with a plain old Huffy 9 function bicycle speedo - really cheap and it just works; no electrical interference from the CDI

  9. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    I found that moving the sensing wire as far away as possible from any engine wire was necessary.

    With the right sprocket ratios in place, weight is not a problem. I weigh 250 lbs and with a jackshaft kit, I regularly approach and sometimes exceed 35 mph on flat road even at this local altitude of 6200 and more feet above sea level. At those speeds, my engine is turning over 5000 rpm in fifth gear, according to my SenDEC tachometer. But with the slightest hill or in a moderate headwind, my speed drops quickly because the engine just can not maintain it.
  10. T Rock

    T Rock New Member

    My whole set up is completely stock. What would be some cheap mods that I could do without breaking the bank. I heard of some people removing the baffle from the muffler, is that ok ? Will it make the exhaust much louder? Is there any type of carb adjustments that I could do to get more fuel into the engine?
  11. T Rock

    T Rock New Member

    Will a high flow air cleaner make a noticeable difference ?
  12. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Hi T Rock

    Don't fall into the trap of removing the baffles from the muffler.
    All you will have is an itrritatingly noising engine that looses a noticable amount of low and midrange torque, for the sake of a miniscule amount of extra top end power.

    The best mods i've done (without pulling the engine apart) are to port the intake tube at the sharp turn radius and match port the intake tube to the engine intake port.
    If you've got the larger 66-69cc engine, stay with the standard NT carburettor and replace the standard jet with a Dellorto No 82 for best power or a No 83 for reduced engine temperatures and improved smoothness.
    You can try a No 84 if wanting even lower engine temperatures, though there will be a very slight reduction in maximum power but midrange torque will be further improved.

  13. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    I agree with not removing the baffles, but I drilled two 4mm holes through the tail-pipe, just inside the end-cap, without increasing noise too dramatically, but it improved performance perceptably. Any more than that and it'll get a bit loud, (for my liking, at least).

    On the subject of jets, I run a stock exhaust with only the above mod and a stock NT carb, 66cc (ZBox series 3) engine, port matching, but mine would be lucky to even run with an 0.82-0.84mm main jet, it would 4-stroke right through the rev range and foul the plug heavily. Even the stock 0.79mm did all of that. It runs nicely all through the rev range with an 0.72mm jet and the slide needle at it's lowest setting.

    Unless you have an air leak somewhere, I think that all of these engines vary a bit and need individual tuning.

    Tony at RSE suggested an 0.72mm for these engines right from the start and by trial and error I ended up with exactly that size. I get best performance, no 4-stroking and a clean plug, even with a 20:1 fuel/oil ratio.
  14. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Last edited: May 12, 2010
  15. hemi350

    hemi350 Guest

    with the carb tips and the port matching and a little money a gear change if its not to hilly where ur at to maybe a 36t will give u a good cruising speed over the stock 44t used in most kits now. what do u guy say, a topend increase of about 5 to 7 mph.