What to do with this WC1.....

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by stillgar, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. stillgar

    stillgar New Member

    Hello to all,


    I am Kyle and I have three Whizzers, all modern. (I want to buy a 300 or 700 at some point.....) I have a near perfect 2007/2008 Ambassador 1; a near perfect 1998/1999 WC1 (I believe it has the 26mm carb.); and a ROUGH 1998/1999 WC1 (I also believe has the 26mm carb... plastic lever assembly.)

    All run quite well and quite original.

    Since it is in such poor shape, I am wanting to mod the rough WC1. Since every piece of chrome was pitted, my idea was to black out all the chrome and mod the engine. I wanted to get some ideas from you guys since I am still new to options available to me.

    Thanks for your ideas,

    Kyle

    Here are the pics:
    Two Whizzers.jpg
    WC1.jpg
    WC1 Front Fork.jpg
    WC1 Front Rim.jpg
    WC1 Handle Bar Pit.jpg
    WC1 Motor.jpg
    WC1 Rear Wheel.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012

  2. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    Hi Kyle, I really like the pic of your 99 WC-1 and the Ambassador, the first and the last, for now, modern Whizzers. WC-1 stands for (Whizzer Classic -1) Here in Cali, the Ambassador never made the 1000 mile journey, So there not legal here. If you got 2 WC-1's, maybe keep that one original? I have them both ways. anyways thanks and keep us posted.

    Ray
     
  3. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Kyle,


    You have one of the RARE Ambassadors. The later Ambassador was called the Ambassador II. The limited production Ambassador had the original automatic clutch used on the NE5 motorbikes. The later Ambassador II used the CVT drive. With a little effort and a few upgrades the limited production Ambassador is by far my choice of the two versions.

    The following upgrades should be considerd for the Ambassador................
    Remove the compression release assembly from the head [it leaks and will make the motor run very lean], it can be replaced with a short reach 10 MM spark plug.

    The cylinder needs to be re-cured as the aluminum is too brittle [head bolt threads shear]

    The head needs to be milled and the combustion chamber need s to be re shaped for better flow [milling the head will increase the metal between the bolt holes and the combustion chamber]

    All washers except the thick one need to be removed from the headbolts [lock washers shoul never be used on a headbolt]

    The mushroom lifters are too heavy, and often the base isn't level [lifters can be modified and lightened]

    The camshaft need to be set to ONE tooth advanced [may be set even or 2 teeth advanced from the factory]

    Intake lifter clearance needs to be .006", and the exhaust lifter need to be set at .008".

    If motor has a steel head gasket, should replace with a copper version.

    Only a very few Ambassadors with the 26 MM carburetor made it through the system [yours looks to be a 22 MM version]
    The 26 MM was too much for a completely stock NE motor.

    The motor series used on the Ambassador was WSE and all WC-1 and NE motors used the WME series of numbers.

    All WSE motors had the rear machined to accept the starter mounting bracket.

    The special tires used on the Ambassador [both versions] require series attention and many replace with the baloon tire [26 x 2.125] or the 26 X 2.35 tires with the stiffer sidewall.

    The speedometer is off by over 10% due to the larger tires [50 MPH = 55 MPH] on the Ambassador, Ambassador II, and the NE-r].

    It is wise to replace the bolt holding the kick stand to the frame with a quality grade 8 bolt, as the original can easily break [was unhappy when my bike fell into another in the stock room].

    Hope this helps,

    Have fun,
     
  4. stillgar

    stillgar New Member

    Thanks Lee,

    It was good talking with you. Funny enough, the Ambassador 1 I have was sold by you originally. I thought it had the 22mm carb. I had read a blurb about the plastic choke on the modern Whizzers. I thought... "Well, both my WC1s have a plastic choke..... They must be 26mm....." What I didn't understand was that the WC1s came with a 19mm carb. The 'plastic choke' identifier is only for later Whizzers. I will be getting you to improve my Ambassador. My poor Ambassador has a hard time idling and can't climb hills at very well. I would like for it to go faster, climb hills and idle without dying.

    Any ideas with what to do with my poor, battered WC1?

    Thanks,

    Kyle
     
  5. Mike Notigan

    Mike Notigan Member

    Kyle,
    I like your black-out idea! Sort of like a Junior Harley Davidson Iron 883. Amazing what matte black does to the small sportster. But the most important thing to do is to have all of the internal issues with the WC1 motor squared away to make it dead reliable.
    As far as the rusted pieces, it would be best to have the parts bead blasted to remove the rust and eliminate any chances of it reappearing under your new paint! Sounds like the perfect winter project.........
    Take Care,
    Mike
     
  6. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Kyle,

    If you want to make a "hot Rod" from the WC-1, I will gladly help you. You can put a high lift camshaft, mushroom lifters, port & upgrade the cylinder, copper head gasket, mill & modify head, modify muffler insert, etc.

    A few upgrades will also help the Ambassador, idle, run cooler, produce about twice as much power, start easier, improve gas mileage [stock motor only averages about 40 MPG], and lastly upgrading the automatic clutch.

    Have fun,
     
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