Where to find clutch?? and MAKING MY OWN Fric. Bike.

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 4x4_war, May 11, 2010.

  1. 4x4_war

    4x4_war New Member

    i need a clutch. not sure how to go about it. i am building my own engine/bracket for the drive roller. i plan to use a bmx bike peg for the drive roller. i am using 4" c-channel for the bracket. i will also use 2 pieces of 2" flatstock for the bracket supports from the rear frame holes. i plan to make a bracket to go around the seat post that pivots similar to the one in this video.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRjWAi3-XEA

    I have a 28cc Troybuilt weed eater engine i am using. i also have 2 other engines i could use.(homelite, and green, weed eater brand.)
    i do have plenty of materials to make this so give me any pointers if u have some. thanks,
    Tyler
     

  2. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    From what I've researched, the weedwhacker's tiny clutch will not work for friction drive.

    Go to this site and look for "deacon". He's the gur of weedwhacking friction DIY projects:

    http://motorbicycling.com/f36/
     
  3. Dilly Bar Rob

    Dilly Bar Rob Member

    Do you really need it to be "auto"? If not you could just rig up a manual engage/disengage lever like I did on my friction drive.

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=26996

    I am sure someone has has done something similar in a rear-wheel setup. The benefit would be that you would not need to look for a clutch, you would just mount the peg directly to the crank. Starting would remain easy as you have a pull start on the engine. Simply start it while disengaged and then engage while riding. OR bump start it, if you have a clutch on there you cant bumpstart in the even that you flood the engine or something.

    I also agree with 5-7, I don't think that a weedwacker clutch would work (for long).
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2010
  4. 4x4_war

    4x4_war New Member

    yea i suppose. never considerd that. so would a bigger drive shaft make it go faster? cuz it would b cool if i could have a big and a small shaft for the country and in town.
     
  5. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I agree that engagement lever is a great choice.

    When you build it, make sure you can crank that lever so it exerts maximum pressure deep into the tire. That way you don't need to install a whole bunch of springs to keep the roller in contact with the tire.

    Larger diameter rollers make for higher speeds, if the engine has turn it.

    Start with your BMX peg first. It might work best.
     
  6. 4x4_war

    4x4_war New Member

    this is not the bike, but this is (GENERALLY) what my brackets are going to end up looking like if everthing goes as planned. I know they are not perfect, but i did it on paint. gotta giv me credit 4 that. haha
     

    Attached Files:

  7. professor

    professor Active Member

    Some of the cheap wacker engines have only one bearing. I would not use that style engine unless you put a load supporting bearing on the outboard end of the roller- and then it would have to run true.
     
  8. Dilly Bar Rob

    Dilly Bar Rob Member

    Professor makes a good point. You should choose which engine you want to definitely use first and then build the drive around it, to suit it as well as it can.

    Are the engines all known to be running well? Which one looks to have the least hours? Which one looks the best built? Which one is made in japan:detective: I don't know much about these but I have read that the old homelite stuff was decent.

    Post some pictures of the lil' 2 strokes !! :tt1::tt1::tt1:

    The setup in the video you linked to looks good. It would not be too much work to implement a manual engage lever in there if you wanted to.

    For a drive roller- just use what you have on hand and see how it works :cool: BMX peg? Sounds like it will work to me :grin5: If it doesnt work, use something else...
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  9. Dilly Bar Rob

    Dilly Bar Rob Member

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