Which Whizzer?

Hal the Elder

Member
Local time
2:01 AM
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
638
HEY FRIENDS:

The blue unsold 2006 NE5 that I plan to buy this coming Saturday has a red "brother" standing next to it in the dealer's showroom.

I was curious about that one, so I called the dealer today, who told me that the red one is also an unsold 2006, and it also has just one mile on it!

HOWEVER, The Red one has a SLIP CLUTCH instead of the automatic centrifugal clutch, and has the rear COASTER BRAKE, instead of the drum brake as on the Blue Whizzer.

These traditional features harken back to that long-remembered Whizzer that I rode 57 years ago!

In your opinions, which should I buy? (Each is offered at $1150 +tax & one-time license)

Old Hal will trust to your judgement, Gentlemen!

HAL
 
Last edited:
Hi Hal
You will get people on both sides of this issue. I personally like the auto clutch. Mine originally came with the slip clutch. I am glad I changed to the auto clutch because it has better slow speed manors but the auto clutch needs some special attention too. The manual clutch might be the right choice for you.

Jim

You like the way I didn't make the choice for you? lol
 
My Whizzer has the 70mm auto clutch and rides great.

I am using the 70mm auto clutch too. I like it better than the 90mm because of the hills around here plus the fact I am not a small person. The manual clutch only comes in 90mm whereas the auto clutch comes in 90mm,70mm,and 50mm. The 50mm will give you the most power but a slow top speed. The 90mm is the fastest speed but not as much power on hills. The 70mm is a nice happy medium.

Jim
 
Still deciding...

Hey...I'm not a little guy either (6' 2", 225 lbs.), but if I choose the auto clutch bike, I'm afraid I'll have to be content with whatever size clutch comes with it!

As I've said before...my riding will be mostly at under 30 MPH on back roads and residential areas...no steep grades and NO highway riding!

HAL
 
Last edited:
Hi Hal, Just buy both of them.........ha ha. Here are the facts. The manual won't work like the vintage Whizzer and is difficult to adjust so that the front belt "slips" when stopped and doesn't when riding. You should also give some serious thought to the rear coaster brake. The rear coaster brake on the new edition Whizzers should be avoided when possible, for 2 reasons. Reason number one is it will decrease in stopping power after a short time [common on coaster brakes], and secondly the rear hub may collapse because most are a Bendix "knock off" but the spoke flanges are pressed on, not machined as part of the hub. So if you go for the manual consider finding a good rear hub, and a belt tension kit [approx. $50.00] from a Whizzer dealer. If you go for the automatic, you should plan on having the clutch hub modified with a hardened bearing sleeve [I am in the process of rebuilding 51 of them in my shop at the moment, approx. $100.00 each]. As you can deduct from this information, just a few modifications will make the Whizzer drive system "bullet proof". It is possible to make the automatic work so well that some bikes can pull a "Wheelie" [just ask JBCruisin on this site]. I have both types in my collection, and enjoy each type. The automatic will allow you to go slower than the manual, but won't get as many MPG. If you live in a "hilly" region the automatic will be easier to use.
Remember it is possible to convert the Whizzer from manual to automatic, or from automatic to manual, and I have had owners that have done just that. The automatic can also have the ratios changed by buying just the drive side, and the stock is 90 MM [3.5"] with an approx. ratio of 9 X 1, and the most common option is the 70 MM [2.7559"] approx. ratio of 11 X 1.
Hope this information helps, either way, get a Whizzer. I always say "you either owned a Whizzer as a kid, or wished you did". Don't miss out on the fun again.

Have fun,
Quenton
 
Last edited:
Hal, I'm a fan of the slip clutch, but that's probably only because I don't have the auto clutch. I have my slip clutch adjusted fairly well and I'm mostly happy with it, but it's not quite perfect. Like most auto clutches, you have to do a little tinkering to get it perfect. My issue is with pulley alignment, and once that is resolved it'll be where I want it.
But what Quenton said about the auto clutch and its rideability (especially at slow speeds) is correct. I have found myself wishing for an auto clutch at times.
The coaster brake issue is a major consideration. The modern Whizzer's coaster brakes haven't been known for the best stopping power, and the flange issue is a safety concern. I had the left-side flange on mine give way, and fortunately it was at a very slow pace or I might have ended up eating asphalt. The back-end started wobbling like a hula dancer. Whizzer replaced it for me under warranty (which I am thankful for), but I'm keeping an eagle-eye on the new one. I've also noticed a bit of a reduction in stopping power as time went on. I may relace it with a Bendix or New Departure coaster brake over the winter.
 
Hey Quenton:

Thanks for all the tech info...that's what I like!

Being a retired engineer, I just "eat up" data, tech talk, specs, shop math, etc!

I'll probably get the Auto, because of the rear drum brake, but I would still like to have the 90mm clutch pulley to give me a higher gear ratio.

I don't want the higher ratio for speed, but just for having the engine run at a slower rpm, giving me that "chug-chug" exhaust note at low speeds.

I don't like the sound of high-revving engines! When I had my 652cc Suzuki Savage "Big Single" thumper, I loved to cruise the neighborhood at 20-25 MPH in 4th gear, just to hear the SLOW pulse of the engine! I like it when I can actually COUNT the power strokes as well as feel them!

I'm an extreme "Low RPM" man!

HAL
 
Back
Top