Whizzer CVT drive system pictures...

[bobco]

Hi august!

From looking at your pictures, it would seem to me that Whizzer has only implemented a system where they're basing the operation of this thing on spring tension alone from the drive cvt (engine) to the driven cvt (jackshaft) and that's NOT the way a Comet or Vintage Rupp minibike or snowmobile unit is designed to work. Those units are also torque sensing and will provide an infinite range (within reason) of adjustment depending on engine rpm and load. I don't see on the inner driven pulley any ramp arrangement that would allow torque sensing to occur. And you are correct, the drive pulleys should close together when you reach higher engine rpms and the rear driven should open up. My guess from all the testing I've done for minibike riding...I'd say they have way too much driven spring tension present, that is not allowing the front pulleys to close correctly!! Something else to re-design...

Cheers! bobco

 

[go-rebels]

Is the design of the new Whizzers done in Texas or Taiwan? I just can't believe that it is done in the USA?

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey August:

Please do me a special favor:

Stand in front of your NE-R and take a face-on picture, with the wheel pointed straight ahead, and also one from directly behind.

I've seen several advertizing pictures of the NE-R, but all from oblique angles, which don't show the rise and curve of the handlebars the way I want to see them.

This is important to me, as none of the handlebar manufacturers stock a handlebar like the one I saw on the "Montana Whizzer", on my thread entitled "Found That Picture", posted on 12-20-08.

I'll really appreciate this! If the NE-R has the handlebar style that I've been looking for, then I'll order a pair from Texas!

HAL

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Go,
Looks like Taiwan is calling all the shots at the moment. A quick look at the NE-r design & cosmetics I too have a hard time thinking it is an American designed product. After a lot of dealer feedback, about quality and the very slow take off, I can't help but wonder if the CVT system is working at all.

In the interest of explaining the process I will need to refer to ratios, some refer to lowering the ratio, and some refer to raising the ratios. When I refer to a low ratio it will indicate better low speed take-off, and when I refer to higher ratios it will mean more top end.



The past Whizzers only had one ratio, therefore if you purchased the stock 90 MM hub the bike was a little slower leaving the stop sign, but didn't run the motor at high RPMs to reach a good crusing speed. If selecting the 70 MM clutch, the bike would leave the stop sign quicker, but the motor would have a lower top end, and the RPMs were upscale at normal crusing speeds. For the few that selected the 50 MM hub, I am not sure what to say, because you would certainly leave the stop sign quickly, but don't plan on reaching any resonable cruising speed.


The concept of a CVT is to start with a small front pulley and a large rear pulley, therefore supplying a low ratio for better take-off. As the RPMs increase the the front pulley increases in size and the rear pulley reduces causing the ratios to increase for better top end speeds.

If I were involved in the design [which I wasn't], I would have used the 90 MM output pulley for top end, and used the CVT to create the needed ratios for better take-off. As the motor increased the RPMs the CVT would change to the higher ratios and increased the top end and reduce the RPMs needed for normal cruising speeds.

Why is the bike so slow on take-off? with a 70 MM output pulley and reduced ratios the bike should "climb the side of a building" on take-off. But the dealer/owner feedback to me indicates otherwise. Could it be that the ratios don't change at all or very little?

Over the last few years I have witnessed several Whizzers with the "Comet Torque Converter" [CVT drive], and watched the pulleys change size and therefore the ratios. The only problem was the crankshaft couldn't support the extra weight and usually snapped off, and the flywheel managed to travel down the road on it own.

I have been asked to test the new model [by owners/dealers], but just can't spare the time at the moment because of my commitment to EZ Motorbike Company.

Hopefully the new owners of the NE-r and the Ambassador can remove the belt cover and see if the ratios actually change. We will be waiting on the information on this site.

Have fun,

 

[august]

Quenton. I watched the cvt at low and higher speeds, and never saw the ratios change at all.

I mentioned that the drives are slightly out of alignment, don't know if that causes binding and won't allow the ratios to change.

Hal, I will take some pictures of the bars and post them later.

Right now I can't get the dam thing started again, been talking to Quenton trying to get that figured out.

Later, August

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Everyone,

Here are the cross numbers for the 10MM 1/2" reach NGK C7HSA [4629] spark plug.

Champion Z9Y

Prestolite 10E2 or 10E3

Autolite 2795

Bosch UR3AS

Delco S102F

Have fun,

 

[n8ygn]

Quenton

The sheaves on the Ambassador crank open and close instantly while throtling the motor which inturn connects to what looks like a minibike clutch which works not too swift while being new hopefully it will work better with age. I removed it and sanded a little but needs a little more I think.
Also am thinking about installing a toothed belt on the clutch and main pulley to rear wheels. I think this may help but on the cvt the toothed belt (fractional) may snap crank off nothing worse than that sounds painful doesn't it. Dane

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Dane,
How many miles on your bike?

Have fun,

 

[n8ygn]

Quenton

Still only twenty miles on it since october, deer season came in and then it got to cold to ride, it was 4.5 below this morning when I went to work this morning.

 

[august]

An update here, when riding the bike on the street, I didn't see any movement of the sheaves while moving fast or slowing down.

I just had the bike started, finally, and on the center stand, the sheaves would move in and out like they are supposed to as I revved the engine.

Don't know why they didn't move while actually riding the bike, maybe not going fast enough, or maybe the cvt sensed it needed more torque???