Whizzer electronic ignition module problem

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Traveler, Sep 4, 2011.

  1. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    I have a Whizzer H engine.

    About a month ago, I purchased an electronic ignition module from Memory Lane Classics and followed these directions:

    I removed the points and condenser.
    I attached the wires that came with the module. One wire went to ground and the other went to the coil where the condenser wire was attached.
    I did the spark plug test that I originally did when the engine had points.
    There was no spark coming from the spark plug.
    I then switched the wires at the module and did the test again.
    There was still no spark.

    I must be doing something wrong. Any advice is appreciated.

    Jerry
     

  2. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Photo of electronic ignition attached

    With regard to my post, I have attached a photo of the ignition module installed in the point cavity on the Whizzer H engine.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    Looks the same as mine. Is the Air-Gap .012 inch to .015 inch? Plug set at .023 to .025 inch? Ray
     
  4. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Air gap is .012 inch. I haven't checked the plug yet, but it was working fine with the points and condenser.
     
  5. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    Sounds like the module still isn't grounded, maybe if you pedal like heck the flywheel and magneto will kick in.
     
  6. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Opps!

    After a few phone conversations it looks to be a problem in the ignition coil [possible open circuit].

    About 5K ohms from plug wire to ground. about 5.5 K ohms between the 2 connectors on the module. The module checks the same both ways.

    I normally set the "E" bar at .010" from the flywheel.

    Don't forget the module is dependent on the polarity and strength of the magnets in the flywheel.
    If the fire is week, reverse the leads on the module. Some modules [depending on how strong the flywheel magnets are] fire opposite, some only fire one way, some fire both ways with one way strong and the other weak.

    Have fun
     
  7. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Thanks Quenton. I appreciate the help. I fixed the open circuit and tried it both ways. Still no spark. I remember testing the flywheel magnets and I could lift the flywheel just by the pull of the magnets on a wrench. I'll work on it again later.

    Jerry
     
  8. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Jerry,

    I also test the magnets by lifting the flywheel.

    If you fixed the connection, it is most likely the module.
    I noticed in the picture the points lifter is still intact. I normally remove it and partially fill the guide with sealer. I once left it in and it hit the module eventually causing the connector to loosen.

    Have fun,
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2011
  9. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Thanks Quention. I will remove the lifter. I had thought about that also, but didn't know for sure. What kind of sealer did you use? I have some epoxy putty, but that might be overkill. I stopped by Memory Lane Classics yesterday and talked to Harvey. I had pretty much decided it was the coil. It fell loose from the engine and hang by the small wire. The coil seems to have a separate circuit with a ground and hot wire. Harvey was out of them temporarily, but removed a new one from an engine on his workbench. He had an engine stand with an electric motor that would turn over the engine. He showed me, the coil and electronic ignition would spark the plug. He's a great guy. I installed it on my bike tonight, and it runs great! It even idles nice now.

    Jerry
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2011
  10. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Jerry,

    I agree Harv is a great guy! Have known him since 2002. I stopped by thier store and filled my van full of bike and Whizzer parts several years ago. I always look forward to seeing him every year at the Portland, IN show.

    I simply use silicone, as it can easily be removed later if necessary.

    I just built a similar stand with an electric motor, and the first motor I tested was to check for spark [small world] prior to shipment.

    I realy like the way the module adds to a smoother idle and better throttle response.

    Have fun,
     
  11. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Regarding removing the point lifter: Does this require removing the side plate and cam to pull the lifter out?
     
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    There is a hole at the rear of the motor that allows the points push rod to be installed or removed wthout taking the motor apart.

    There was a small cork inserted in the hole when the motor was new, however you will seldom see this cork in a motor as I suspect it would fall out over time.

    You will need to remove the module to allow the push rod to be pulled out.

    If you don't want to go to the trouble of removing it, simply pull it out about 3/8" of an inch apply some type of sealant to hold it in place [form a gasket, silicone, etc].

    Have fun,
     
  13. Traveler

    Traveler Member

    Thanks Quenton. I have noticed that hole before, but never had to remove a push rod. When I tried yesterday, it didn't want to come all the way out. Today, I got it out and through the hole.
     
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