Whizzer is being a brat!

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by 805moparkid, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    so i bought this whizzer from a dealer used like 22 miles... have had it since 02, its an 01 (NE5)?

    well anyways first it dropped a seat so i fixed that and it was running great! i was riding to school and it started acting like it was running out of fuel, sputter-go-sputter-go-sputter-sputter dead...

    so its been a yr (moved and then moved again but now own a house with a garge so!

    here is what i got!
    coil is good
    head light, horn, blinkers,etc works with good battery hooked up not running
    Replaced CDI but dont know how to test the mod
    no spark or power to coil...

    fuse under tank is good, ive been messing with thing thing off and on for a yr and its driving me nuts! i got 3rd in state for auto Diag but this bike is kickin my A**!!

    any help would be great!
     

  2. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    i remember now, its a pacemaker II!
     
  3. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    pics
     

    Attached Files:

  4. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    bump some help please...
     
  5. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    You have the WC-1 engine on that Whizzer, and that engine is problematic. If something doesn't go wrong with the valve seats in the first 500 miles, you are doing well.
    That cylinder was designed with valve seats that are pressed in. When they work loose (and they will), the only real choice is to go to the NE engine upgrade. This entails replacing the cylinder with same type used in the NE5. Quenton Guenther can give you more details about what is needed. He has done many such upgrades. If he doesn't see this thread and weigh in, you may want to send him a Private Message.
     
  6. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    yep already delt with the valve seats right at 500 haha... seems to be an electrical problem...
     
  7. SPJ

    SPJ New Member

    Hi,seems like remember reading on this forum that the rear wiring harness needed to be plugged in in order to complete a ground circuit . Without the rear harness plugged in ,the use of a jumper was necessary in the rear plug to complete a necessary circuit to get a whizzer running. Suggest you do search for this type of wiring problem. I hope this helps . Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2011
  8. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    ok very cool! thanks, i will looks it up and see what happeneds!
    Ed
     
  9. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    was searching around and found various threads about no starts...

    and found this one

    New Owner with problems....

    so i added a jumper wire on the green terminal and now i am back to where i started originally, very light spark but its there! tryed to get it to fire but no luck...

    and suggestions?? also around the same time this happened the light in the speedo stopped working
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2011
  10. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    ok so added a ground strap from the green coil wire/terminal to main ground

    added a ground strap from the engine to direct ground

    added direct ground from main harness (inches before engine) to direct ground

    get weak spark, will jump about .020" but will not fire engine, plug not wet but smells lightly of fuel and will not spark, only when dry

    spark gets no stronger with any of the straps off...

    spark is now constant(timed) but just weak

    Next??
     
  11. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    didn't seem to have any affect with spark or lights (front/blinkers)
     
  12. SPJ

    SPJ New Member

    Whizzer wiring

    Hi , I think this is the post that I was referring to. Post was buy Quenton Guenther,one of the most knowledgeable Whizzer experts on this forum. Hope this is helpful.

    Whizzer wiring

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
    Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
    The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
    It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
    The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

    Hope this information is helpfull, if more information is needed just ask.

    Whizzer OuterBanks,
    Quenton
     
  13. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member


    yea i read all that... thats how i got the thing even to spark... but now its weak...
     
  14. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    ngk cr7eix is the best plug you can run . Bill Green

    should i be running this plug in the WC1?? right now it is a Denso w20fp-u?? could the plug be the problem?
     
  15. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    spun the motor over with an electric drill, no plug in it and measured AC off of the stator (Blk-Red Wire and White Wire), 21V AC.... should be more?
     
  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi 805moparkid,

    Enjoyed our Whizzer talk.

    The CR7XEIX is for the later NE motor. The 1999 ~ 2002 used a 14 MM sparkplug.

    I use Autolite #275 in the 14 MM version head.

    Black w/ red stripe wire should check approx. 500 ohms to ground [must be unpluged to test]. White & yellow wires are approx. 1.5 ~ 2 ohms to ground and have nothing to do with the ignition, but supply AC for lights & charging battery.

    Let me know how it work out.

    Have fun,
     
  17. 805moparkid

    805moparkid New Member

    well the above man, Quenton lead me to the right path of checking the stator. so before i even pulled off the "flywheel" i rocked it back and forth and could see the stator moving around to!

    so i finally got off the flywheel, and the stator was in the flywheel instead of being bolted to the block! as i now find out is a common problem with these because they dont use lock-tite to keep them secure!

    so after a good cleaning with Electrical Cleaner i assembled the stator back onto the block with lock-tite, installed the flywheel and nessary conectors again it it fired right up after sitting for 2 yrs!

    so here are some pics!

    and a vid

    Again Thx Quenton!! AKA Dr. Whizzer!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D7PvVIBAA8
     

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