Whizzer speed - how to?

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by lobsterboyx, Feb 7, 2008.

  1. lobsterboyx

    lobsterboyx Guest

    let me begin by saying i love my whizzer. everyone that ive spoke with agrees that if everyone got on something like it, there would be no gas crisis and i agree - it is the original hybird pedal bike

    here is my question - before the speedo gear broke, the speedo indicated speed at 35-40 mph - it took a few blocks to get there.

    here it is, poised, ready to rocket me around the neighborhood, to the bar or to a buddys house.

    ive read about quintens modified cylenders, and how much everyone boasts the NE upgrade, well, my bike is an 05 so im guessing i have the ne already

    ive taken the restrictor plate off, that was one of the first things i did. i also took the baffle out of the exhaust pipe, and ive been able to coax 1 ft flames out of the tail pipe.

    the belts seem out of adjustment, but no matter how everyone trys to explain it to me, i just cant get it right, the front belt is always very loose.

    here are some close ups of the adjustment areas




    and the whole thing


    so my question to you is how do i make this thing faster...

    also... anyone have another whizzer motor for sale?

    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 7, 2008

  2. bill green

    bill green Member

    Howdy lets start at the begining, you could use A whizzer front belt tensioner,from any whizzer dealer.now about the carb isolater.you eather need that or a extended manifold kit to keep the heat away from the carb . ps please read quentions post on this subject . I believe the engine will run better and for longer and with less police problems with the baffle .....hope this helps bill green vancouver
  3. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Do yourself a favor and put the restrictor plate back in. Enlarge the opening first to match the intake opening on the cylinder. This plate needs to be installed because it insulates some of the engine heat from the carb. This is very important. Some people say you can run without it but two of our resident Whizzer experts say you must keep the restrictor plate installed for heat protection. I'll go with the experts on this one. Taking the exhaust insert out doesn't much help either. It does make it louder but I don't think it makes it faster. As far as making it faster, Quenton Guenther here on the forum is the man to ask. He is very good at getting the most out of a Whizzer. Good luck


    Bill you type faster than me. You beat me to the punch.
  4. bill green

    bill green Member

    Haha I am A slow typist . I have checked with a temp gun either use isolator with enlarged hole from unibit or use new intake from whizzer with two gaskets at head and one at carb both make run better and keep carb temp down.I use the intake on all bikes and have updated all earlier sold bikes bill green vancouver whizzer
  5. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Lobsterboyx,
    I have lots of VERY special NE motors for sale. Just became available to me today. These are so special you will have to PM me for price and features. I will tell you they are not stock NE motors. However a little bad news, there are less than 50 available, and several are already spoken for.
    I also have a couple of kits [without motors] that could be offered as a package with a couple of these motors.
    Want more power? Easy to do with the NE motor! Pull the head, have it milled .060", use new copper head gasket, match intake port spacers [do not remove any spacers] to either the carburetor mouth or the port I.D., make sure you have the correct muffler insert, if not modify the exsisting insert, if missing, replace it. Remove all the washers from the head bolts except the thick washer, shorten all the head bolts 1/8", install mushroom lifters [only use modified version], set intake valve clearance to .006", set the exhaust lifter to .008", advance the camshaft one tooth counter-clockwise, fasten your seat belt, and ride your Whizzer up the nearest hill. And if that isn't enough power I can supply you with a highly modified Early edition NE cylinder that will certainly make you smile. I also have a lot of special prototype speed parts for the really brave.
    Belts? First off forget everything anyone has ever told you about adjusting Whizzer belts. Secondly worry about the front belt, not the back. Third the belt tension kit makes life so much easier [PM any Whizzer dealer for price]. I will tell you how I adjust the belts, I convert to the automatic clutch, pull the spring so tight that the belts "vibrate" when you get near them. I then grab a hand full of throttle and see how far I can raise the front wheel off the ground. Just kidding! When I adjust the belts I first check to see if the front spring bar is installed correctly [motor sits on frame, bar below welded motor mount, then nut], remove rear belt from sheeve, adjust clutch cable with plenty of slack, lossen the top & bottom motor mount nuts, move bottom of motor as far to the rear as the spring bar will allow, tighten the bottom nut, move the top of motor to acheive the tighest setting for the front belt , tighten the top nut, install the rear belt back onto sheeve, move rear wheel to make rear belt tight without causing the front belt to become loose. If the rear wheel won't move enough to the rear use a half link in the chain [purchase at any bike shop], if the wheel can't be moved enough forward to loosen the rear belt enough then lossen the top nut and move the top of the motor towards the rear [not much]. If the rear belt can't be adjusted correctly , consider using a size bigger or smaller to obtain the best adjustment. Most bikes use the AX62 on the rear, some however need an AX61 [available through any Whizzer dealer or most auto parts stores]. If you purchase a tension kit you can use the front belt a lot longer, because as the belt stretches the kit can be adjusted to compensate. The kit also makes the clutch work better when stopped by releasing the belt better. Just for everyones information, a belt tension kit was offered by the Vintage Whizzer company in the late 1940s to help make the belt adjustments easier, but worked on the rear belt not the front belt like the current tension kit. The kits aren't cheap, but sure work well. I just looked at the pictures in your post, the motor is way too far forward, and you need to try to find either an AX27 or a new 4L290 belt before you start. A lot of owners think moving the motor forward makes the front belt tight, just the opposite is usually true. If ya need any more information, just ask.
    Have fun
    Whizzer OuterBanks,
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2008