Alright, a few months ago I promised to do a how-to for my GEBE frame-mount conversion. It took a while, but here it is... Note that it does require permanent modification to the original mount strap. Basically, I made an adapter plate (darker blue) with holes corresponding to the ones in my bike's frame (green). The adapter plate also contains a hole the same size as my axle. It allows a bolt the same diameter as the axle (red) to connect it to the engine mount strap (light blue)... The mount strap needs to be shortened and drilled to make up for increased height of the "dummy axle" bolt. --- If you don't like precision measurement, here's a trick to make an easy, accurate (enough) adapter plate ("AP"). Please note that this only works if the adapter plates for both sides are going to be identical. Step 1: Find a piece of metal for your adapter plate -- eyeball the right size. Step 2: Use a compass to measure from center-to-center the holes on your bike's frame which you will use for mounting. Step 3: Use the compass to mark your AP where the AP-to-frame bolts will go. Do not drill any holes yet. Step 4: Make the compass larger, then use it to etch an identical (but larger) radius from each of the points you made in Step 3... These radii will intersect where at a new point -- the center of your "dummy axle" hole. Step 5: Drill all holes and mount. --- ... Now, mount the engine. Because the "dummy axle" bolt is off-center relative to the wheel, you can rotate the engine/mount arm to adjust the distance the belt has to span. Because of this, you don't need to do any math to find out the proper position of the new holes in your mount strap -- you can just eyeball it. Just be sure to make the holes in your mount strap be symmetrical to each other (otherwise your whole rig will be out of alignment). --- This explanation was a bit rushed, so please post appropriate questions below. Cheers.