WTB Carter Model N 655 Vintage Whizzer Carb

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Nolan, May 27, 2010.

  1. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    WTB Carter Model N 655 Vintage Whizzer Carb
    Anyone have an extra lying around that they would be willing to sell?
    -Nolan
     

  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

  3. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

    The best way is to setup ebay to send you a email when carb show up. I got mine Whizzer to find out water ate the carb.


    Get ready to pay $$$ if you really need one. I know need to $$$ for one.
     
  4. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    Yeah that one up there isn't the correct type. I check often but missed the last good one that went up. I have one but the float is really dented and the bowl has a small crack in it. So if I find a decent 655 I can switch over the good stuff. I've been having plug fouling issues no matter how its adjusted.
    -Nolan
     
  5. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

  6. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    Have any of you tried modern carbs on your vintage motors? it looks like theres many briggs and stratton carbs that look very similar to the Carter 655
     
  7. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Nolan,

    I think the bowl & float is the same on the incorrect Carter N version and can often be purchased cheap. As you know the Whizzer version has the fuel line entering the top of the carbuetor.

    There are 4 different Carter models used on Whizzers, however all have the fuel line entering the top. They are part number #2704 and #2702, but actual numbers on the carburetor denotes 4 versions not 2. 2 of the versions were replacement carburetors and simply had slotted flanges to allow them to fit the earlier "H" motor with the narrow bolt pattern. The main difference between the carburetors is the main jet system. The N655s and the N666s was part number #2704 [the N666s had the slotted mounting holes] and was a fixed main jet. The later #2702 [number is correct, Whizzer released the #2702 after the #2704] was marked either N703s and the slotted version was part number N704s]

    The Carter was never supplied on an "H" motor, however the earlier Tillotson ML5b originally used on the "H" motor was used on "J" motors with serial numbers J230201 to J235200, and again on J23600 to J23700. The reason the earlier Tillotson was used on the "J" motors was because of supply problems with the Carter units during the change from a fixed main jet to the later adjustable main jet version. The Tillotson carburetors were also slotted to fit the wider pattern on the "J" motors.

    There are several carburetors that will work, but the vast majority of period carburetors won't.

    The following will work..........

    Tillotson ML5b [with slots]
    Tillotson MT12a [used on late 300, all 500 & 700 series motors]
    Carter #N655s, #N666s, N703S, and N704s

    18 MM Mikuni [re-jetted] and custom made manifold
    New Edition Whizzer WC-1 carburetor with custom manifold.

    The later Tillotson ML12a was for the more powerful Whizzer motor with the larger valves, but had an adjustable main jet and could easily be tuned to work on earlier motors.

    It has been difficult to make the earlier Carters from B & S, Reo, Kohler & Tech. work because of the venturi size.

    Hope this helps
    Have fun,
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  8. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    Thanks again Quenton,
    I'll keep my eyes out for those..
    -Nolan
     
  9. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Wow.
    It always amazes me at the amount of Whizzer knowledge you have. Once again I have learned a bunch. Thanks Quenton.

    Jim
     
  10. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

    Just look at ebay becuase like Quenton said you will destory the value of the whizzer if you try something else. I think it cost me $130 5 years ago for one and set a price $160 top because I need one.
     
  11. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    I missed a nice whizzer correct one for $60 a few weeks ago.. If thats the case I might just buy that nos float thats up there.
    -Nolan
     
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Noland,

    I have all the info on float settings if needed.

    When I restore a bike for myself I totally rebuild the carburetor and often I replace parts that are 100% good, therefore I most likely have a bunch of good float seats and needles if needed. One item that is in short supply is the bowl because often the top motor mount bracket contacts the bowl and creates a dent. Another problem with the bowl is many over tighten the bowl mounting bolt and cause it to distort and doesn't seal well. Both aluminum and brass bowls are correct and were supplied at random. I had two 300 series motors with the serial number within 2 numbers of each other and both had the original Carter N703s carburetors, one had the aluminum bowl and the other was brass. A few years ago I had several NOS bowls in the original boxes with the exact same part number [23-37] and some were brass and some were aluminum.

    Just one of the vintage Whizzer mysteries.

    Have fun,
     
  13. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    Yeah feel like the bowl and seals may be the issue since it has a crack and leaks a little, I've adjusted the float to compensate for the dents and it still gets sooty, but looks like it burns off if I go for a few miles without stopping.
    -Nolan
     
  14. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

    Last edited: May 30, 2010
  15. Nolan

    Nolan Member

    My bowl seal is probably shot, and I don't recognize that that large black seal so maybe I'm missing that..
     
  16. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

    I remember trying silcone just to get it running. I try a o ring from a harbor freight kit and all fail. Once I got the right o ring it stop leaking.


    The kit is for many n carbs. The o ring seal up the bowl. Then one of the washer is for bolt to hold the bowl on.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2010
  17. whizzer48

    whizzer48 Member

    If I right to rebuild a whizzer carb need the check valve in bag and all the stuff in the o ring. All the rest go in the trash.
     
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