XR-75/Staton NuVinci Build

Okay, This project isn't near finished yet but I have been taking pictures at just about every step of the way. Heres a list of features that are going to be included on this build:
-Mongoose XR-75 dual suspension MTB, aluminum frame, steel rear triangle.
-Staton NuVinci drive with Mitsubishi TLE43 engine, half-lever left hand throttle/killswitch , right side NVshifter. Torsion bars.
-center handlebar mounted digital speedo.
-left handle bar end nashbar convex mirror.
-New aluminum nashbar Jaws pedals.
-double thick and slimed Bell innertubes
-Bell kevlar lined 26x1.75 road tires (thin but should allow this thing to be pedaled if need be.)
-Bottle and cage for extra fuel
-Bell comfort Gel seat (black)
-Finished and painted Staton hardware (gloss black to match rear triangle of bike.)
-Emaxi break levers with internal switches for brake light activation.
-Full lighting to New Hampshire moped standards. Enclosed in a soft (hard lined) black/silver lunchbox to be mounted to the left hand side of the Staton rack opposite the engine.
--55w Halogen headlamp w/ small rectangular enclosure and mounting hardware wired through a very efficient 12v turn dial dimmer switch to adjust brightness.
--A 7 LED taillamp that doubles as a brake light when wired with the Emaxi levers.
--Electrical master on/off switch and 12v battery gauge.
--5ah SLA battery.
--Charger port.
--Possibly an on the move charging system as well as I have a 1200mAh 12v power rectifier that I may be able to hook into a dynamo or DC brushed motor.
-All wires/cables to the staton rack are going to be run down (and through) the center of the frame and will be wrapped in spiral casing and zip tied clean and secure.


I would have this beast finished but I'm still waiting for the weather to get nice (clear and over 50F) so I can prime and paint the staton rack to match the bike. I've already done a lot of grinding and rounding to make the staton kit not appear as chunky. I have to say though this thing is rock solid. I've already mocked everything up and it should all fit together nicely. So here are the pictures. I have tons more but I've had to do the steps all out of order as I got the chance to do them so it would be more confusing to you folks than its worth.

Pic1: The mongoose last summer after a muddy thrillride down a trail near my house.
Pic2: Mongoose with NuVinci installed and cables run, torsion straps are backwards (was just measuring at the time) and heavy duty pedal chain.
Pic3: NuVinci out of the box.
Pic4: Mocked up rack to make sure everything would fit and work well.
Pic5: Cooler electrical box. Front pocket (with penguin) has the dimmer, switch and battery gauge mounted into plastic underneath. Unfinished.
 

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Newest update, I have my HORN installed perfectly to my liking. This sucker is LOUD at 105db. She sounds like a car or motorcycle no lie. Great for making your presence known to the cagers but I find its just fun and safer to give a few quick chirps to people waving at me rather than taking my hand off the grips to wave. This sucker only cost me 20 bux for horn, button and connectors and was easily wired to my electrical system. You guys gotta get one of these I was laughing my arse off when I first heard how loud it is.

Can you tell me what electrics the horn connects to on your 4-strke and where you got the horn and what it sounds like - eg a truck, a train, a fire engine?
Thanks Sir Jakesus
 
Check out the video I just posted, sounds like a motorcycle horn.
I got most of my electrical components from http://www.electricscooterparts.com/ the horn is the first 12v horn in the horns section Item # HRN-12. I wired it up in series with my battery on the negative end of the Magura® Momentary Push Switch" Item # SWT-44 also on their site. Everything electrical is run from a 12v 5ah SLA battery.
 
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Copied from: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?p=127402#post127402
to consolidate the info distributed to help others with similar projects.
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Well, wiring up the taillight to act as both a brake and taillight was probably the hardest part. I had to wire in a resistor to bring the light to about half its normal brightness. I bought an assortment of resistors from radioshack.com. Then I had to wire in my brake levers with switches built into them to act as a bypass so when I apply the brake the electricity bypasses the resistor and lets the full 12v current flow through the light. The way to get around this trouble is instead of getting one taillight or red trailer marker light get two, one that stays on all the time and another that only has its circuit completed with the lever switches. The horn is easily wired in a series loop +battery>pushbutton>horn>battery- same with the headlight only with a rocker or toggle switch. Make sure you install a fuse as the first thing on the positive battery terminal to avoid a meltdown. I used mostly all insulated tab terminal connectors so I didn't have to do any soldering. To make as many connections as I needed without making a mess I just took a length of 18ga auto wire and stripped it every 2 inches or so and pulled the casing off of it, pinched the bare wire over on itself and crimped it down in the connectors and ran everything off of those two main leads so its basically wired like this in my battery pack:
Battery+>fuse>switch>connector>connector>connector>connector>etc
Battery->connector>connector>connector>connector>etc

And I attached everything onto those two main leads like my charging port, taillight, headlight etc. It's all pretty easy just time consuming to think through without creating a big ball of electrical tape. Get a multimeter to get your polarities correct and remember to always cut the wire in lengths longer than you think you need. It's cheap and it'll keep you from coming up short when wiring up your bike in the neatest way possible. I would also suggest automotive wiring spiral wrap, it makes for a neat appearance and protects your wires from abrasion and eventual shorting. I find twisting lengths and pairs of wire together and securing at either end with a small zip tie also helps to keep things clean and easy to manage. Also remember when crimping the connectors to the wire squeeze the suckers as hard as you can so they don't fall apart with all the vibrations while riding. Get some good connectors with clip retention if you plan on plugging and unplugging a piece often, the tab terminal connections hold on really tight and I wouldn't want to pry them apart every time I wanted to take my battery bag inside with me.
 
just got back from the auto store with a horn and my ears are still ringing ahhhh....

its a 105 db just like yours, low tone version and boy is it loud, there is no way i could attach this to my bike without some major sound damping so i was wondering even though the scooter horn says it is 105db it has to be quieter than the car version i just picked up.

did i tell you my ears are still ringing and thats from about 2 secs of it been hot.
 
Update on the bike. I have 300 miles on it after an hour and a half ride today. I rode around today with the objective of finding out how many MPG my setup was achieving so I filled the 22oz tank up and ran it until there was just a splash left. I checked my trip odometer after my hour and 10min or so ride and I had put 30 miles on her. With 128oz to a gallon this comes out to roughly 174mpg! I pedaled assisted the bike up steep hills and ran WOT some of the time but mostly kept her around 3/4. Average speed was 22mph for the trip. I'm psyched. overdriving the engine with the NuVinci hub really helps out tons. I was very surprised myself to see the difference between the break in MPG and now. I just filled up my gallon jerry can again for the third time and still have my 22oz camp fuel can left from the second gallon I bought. On top of that I used some mix for the weedwacker. I stopped into the bank drive through ATM to get some cash and the guy behind me in a fire department pickup pulled up and said "Nice contraption you got there!" Afterwards I stopped into the local hicktown gas station and the full service attendant started talking to me about the bike and said he was reading the Union Leader about motorized bikes to see me a few minutes later zip by on mine. I told him about this site and some of the kits available. Schools were getting out on my ride too and every time a bus passed me I saw a dozen little faces craning their necks staring at me.

I LOVE MOTORED BIKING! No way do I have this much fun on my SV650s.
 
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Schools were getting out on my ride too and every time a bus passed me I saw a dozen little faces craning their necks staring at me.

I LOVE MOTORED BIKING! No way do I have this much fun on my SV650s.

That is an enchanting story Sir Jakesus and very similar to my outings with one big difference - it's me that passes the school bus!
You know I just love your bike and yesterday I saw a 2nd hand Specialised with dual suspension going cheap in a bike shop. I can't afford your kit yet but I'll need to start somewhere and I nearly bought the bike until I saw that the rear wheel was 24" and wouldn't be good with that kit. I've scrutinised your pictures and think I know what sort of bike I'll need to mount the kit.
All those kids faces peering out of the bus deserved a wheelie at the very least!
 
get some new pics up so we can see the finished project,

its real fun when people see you on the bike but then shortly after hearing the engine you always get that second glance, its a bike isn't it !!!! but it cant be surely, he's not even pedaling !!!

i can only hope i can get the electrics sorted out to be as neat and tidy as the job you have done, congrats on the build and many happy motoring adventures.
 
Awesome Ride!

My son will have a fit when I email him these pictures. He has the same bike and wants to motorize it. Your "camo" job on the Staton unit is outstanding. The black paint and the bag/counterweight is genius. That kit with a Honda GXH50 engine is currently $1099.00 in case any of you were wondering...

Brett
 
ouch, thats a lot of quarters out of the cookie jar, but what is true with these setups you get what pay for, the bike sirjakesus has built is truely a high quality build you tell that along from watching his vids, that baby is running smooth, quality parts cost $$$
 
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