YIKES!! it runs great but won't stop

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by jroyse, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    2nd bike build. This is a Schwinn springer cruiser type Which was a real pain to build. After help from all of you its finally done. Had to fab motor mounts & move the motor 1/2 inch left. Also moved the rear sprocket left about 1/4. Bent the left pedal crank to clear engine, now the chain clears the tire.
    Only one problem left... I need way better brakes. Rear coaster is very poor.
    Can I add a front brake of sorts? Maybe a disk?
     

  2. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    forgot the picture

    hope this works. somebody tell me if it don't
     

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  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    First off do something with those fenders, before the supports break (most all do over time) and puts you to the pavement. Very nice clean looking ride.
     
  4. lanternman

    lanternman New Member

    Looks nice, but Al Fisherman is right. My fender brackets broke, but I didn't wreck. Additional braceing is needed and lock nuts and locktite and gorillal glue on that. Good luck. Louis
     
  5. pbeggs

    pbeggs Member

  6. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    To put a disk on the front you would have to get a front hub that has a flange for the disk itself to bolt onto. then, you'd have to weld a cailper bracket to the front forks. This all could get pricey because you'd have to either buy a rim with a disk brake ready hub, buy a disk brake hub and have it laced to your rim, have someone (or yourself) weld the caliper bracket to the forks correctly and then re-paint. and then you'd have to buy a disk and a brake caliper.
    personally i think your best option is a caliper brake (front or back). You could look into a bmx style U brake (which is like a caliper brake, but works 10 times better) but i'm not sure if the frame or forks would accept one.
     
  7. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Get a good quality front caliper brake and mount it through the front fender mount hole on the forks... get extended shoes for it. Between that and the coaster brake, you will have adequate stopping power.
    the Old Sgt.:army:
     
  8. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered 4 Whizzer braces to stabilize the fenders. Still thinking about brakes. I dont get why the coaster brake is so poor. Maybe cause its just a cheapo? I'm looking at adapting a disc brake from a mini bike to the front or rear.
     
  9. TOTAL CARNAGE

    TOTAL CARNAGE Member

    I'm with the Old Sgt. on the front brake and I'm sure you can do it on the rear also. It looks like the fender is already dimpled to clear a caliper.
    I would also take that rear hub apart and see what's wrong back there.
    All my bikes are coaster brakes and set right, I don't have trouble with any of them.
     
  10. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    OK I think its fixed

    Took the bike apart again. Added new fender braces and replaced the old ones. Now I have nice solid fenders. Thanks for the tip. Messed with the brakes and found one of the spacers I had welded on was loose. I need welding lessons. Welded it one more time and now I have pretty good brakes. I can even lock up the wheel. Rode around the neighborhood till I got freezin cold and everything worked great.
    Thanks guys for all your help.
     
  11. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I'm not following you...
    what "spacers" are you talking about for the brake?
    a coaster brake that needs spacers welded on? (or did you add spacers to put a caliper brake on?)
    I don't know about others but my coaster brake works like a champ, and has plenty of stopping power for my little 20" bike that tops out at 32 mph.
     
  12. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    Coaster Brake fix

    I didn't explain that very well. I had to move the rear sprocket outboard to gain chain clearance to the tire. That done now the coaster brake arm interfered with the sprocket. So I welded some 1/4 inch spacers to the backside of the arm. These spacers have to line up with the "flats" that work the brake. Due to my poor welding one spacer didn't hold. Once fixed the brake works fine. Somebody out there make a spacer for this but it was not available when I was doing this. Visualize the brake arm going back inside the sprocket hole as the sprocket moves outboard. Now you must space the arm out and bend it a little to clear the sprocket. Geez, now I'm confused.
     
  13. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    oh, ok i see what you did now.
    But, in reality, you could have just heated and bent the brake arm to clear the sprocket.
    That's what i did and it works great.
     
  14. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    here's a picture with added fender braces, some pinstriping on the fenders and more on the gas tank. Do ya think I'm done? Probably not. There's always something.
     

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  15. toojung2die

    toojung2die Member

    Very nice looking ride. It looks like it came out of a motor bike factory looking like that.
     
  16. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    agreed,,
    looks 'factory' !!!
    nice job :)
     
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