the keyed kill switch

The problem here is that the key provides almost no security... All a thief has to do is cut the wires to the switch.

n
agreed, as stated in the last thread keyed switch on a motorised BICYCLE is pointless. But i do respect your time and effort spent on it.
 
..cause i tried doing this on my schwinn with a push button switch, and it didnt work. so i might be asking for some tech support....

Cap the white wire. Run blue to switch to blue,black to black.
It would work now. Speaker wire should work as long as it's thicker than the blue wire. Less resistance that way. Remember the longer the wire the more resistance you'll have with the current having to travel a long way to get that spark. So the thicker the wire,I would think the less resistance.
...maybe if the wire is extended that long maybe it should be the black or ground wire that should be spliced. That way the blue wire has a short way from coil to magneto and the black returns the current anyway rather than gives the current as in the case of the blue wire.
Let us know how it goes and what wiring worked for you.
CONGRATULATIONS on being the first!
 
if run that way, cutting the wires would leave the cdi inoperable
my toggle kill switch is set-up the same way (for that reason)
and, as others have posted, breaks the connection to kill engine, rather than grounding cdi out to kill it (which should extend life of cdi)
 
if run that way, cutting the wires would leave the cdi inoperable
my toggle kill switch is set-up the same way (for that reason)
and, as others have posted, breaks the connection to kill engine, rather than grounding cdi out to kill it (which should extend life of cdi)

Good to hear! I think the keyed kill switch will require a bit of finesse to pull off in a way that would be entirely aesthetically pleasing, but I think constructing a dash would be the best way.
 
well, i went out on the ray today (the white wire came undone was why the kill didnt work in the 1st place.) and i went to my grandparents, where my dad bent the factory exhaust and now i have a working exhaust until i get the other one fixed. and the wire came undone somwhere on the way home, so i gotta do it again. i might try to do it the way u guys sugusted, if i remember to. but if it aint 1 thing its another! my dad says my bung is leaking on my tank (the place the petcock screws in) he says its leakin at the base. so, i guess i am buying another tank...... grrrrrr
 
well, i went out on the ray today (the white wire came undone was why the kill didnt work in the 1st place.) and i went to my grandparents, where my dad bent the factory exhaust and now i have a working exhaust until i get the other one fixed. and the wire came undone somwhere on the way home, so i gotta do it again. i might try to do it the way u guys sugusted, if i remember to. but if it aint 1 thing its another! my dad says my bung is leaking on my tank (the place the petcock screws in) he says its leakin at the base. so, i guess i am buying another tank...... grrrrrr
IF it's cracked and leaking at the base there must be some sorta gas resistant glue u can use...welding would be better but if that's not possible go into an automotive store and see what's available.
 
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