Removal and adjustment of belts

[peter nap]

A while back, Mike posted his method of tightening belts and it flat made no sense. Since then, I found that my Whizzer has an idler that puts tension on the small belt.

Either my dealer or whoever built the bike had locked down the idler and that's why Mikes method didn't work.

In another thread Quenton gave his method of gresing the bearings in the clutch. That requires removing the belts.

I sure would like the idiots guide to removing, replacing and adjusting both the large and small belt.

Thanks!

 

[billspirit]

The idler on both of my bikes is locked tight, 06 07 NE5 should it be free to move ? it does have a tension spring attached to it.
Thanks Bill B

 

[peter nap]

The idler on both of my bikes is locked tight, 06 07 NE5 should it be free to move ? it does have a tension spring attached to it.
Thanks Bill B

When I hit the roof over all the problems my 07 had, Dave at Whizzer, sent me to a dealer that he said was first rate.

The locked idler is one of a couple dozen problems he found and fixed...so I assume it should be free. Mine is and I haven't had a squeal since.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Peter,
I adjust the belts differently than everone else, and of the 12 different Whizzers I ride, all the clutches work perfectly. Since the front belt seems to be the hardest to get right, I start with it and then adjust the rear belt last. If your bike has the tension kit, I would remove it, or loosen the bearing so that the front belt is not effected by it. Next I remove the rear belt [carefully roll off the belt from the rear sheeve]. I loosen the front mount on the frame, loosen the bottom motor mount nut, and loosen the top rear mount. Next I move the motor around untill the front belt is at the tighest point, then tighten all the mounts. Next I install the rear belt, and move the rear wheel until the back belt is tight, but not so much that it pulls the clutch downward and loosens the front belt. I have had to install a "half link kit" on some of the bikes to allow the rear wheel to move enough towards the rear. Often I loosen the top rear motor mount and shift the motor to cause both belts to be equally tight. After the adjustment re-install the idler tension kit to take any extra slack from the front belt [I don't use the tension kit on any of my bikes]. I replace all the original front belts with the AX27 belt. I have also cut the top of the clutch arm [where the spring attaches] and re drilled a new hole to cause the spring to have a little more tension.
Hope this helps,
Whizzer OuterBanks
Quenton