***KAH-RACK!*** was all I heard...

Jared,
I have the same type of mount as you - except - I filled the empty space with washers (9 I think). This DEFINITELY strengthens the assembly.

If you want to improve upon that, check eBay for the LiveFastMotors upgrade kit - I just ordered it for the 40t sprocket, but it comes with a U-bolt mounting kit, too. The entire thing costs $14...

FYI - with the washers, I've had NO problem, and I'm even using the Chinese junk bolt...the washers make all the difference and add the strength.

I don't know what the fallout from pulling the bolt and mounting differently...now there's a hole in the frame, and it's a weak spot without the bolt to fill it. Personally, I'd try out the washers first, it's the cheapest solution...under $0.50.

Thanks, Mark. I'm weighing my options right now as far as what I'm going to do. I think Butch can help me out w/a new mount-system, but it definitely crossed my mind that the frame might be weakened from the holes....

We'll see I guess. For now I'm outside on my deck trying to fix the gas-leak problem--seems to be coming from the bowl under the carby and not from the gas line, but I dunno... I'm going out to take the carb off and slightly apart right now.

Thanks again!
 
I think that exposed bolt is putting too much stress on it.
Try this.
Loosen up your mount then bring your frame bolt all the way thru so that your threads are not exposed. The plate then resting on your frame will give some "flex resistance".
So now your left with your mount not being able to reach your engine. No problem.
Get longer bolts and some washers to fill the gap.
Yes,you still have exposed threads but this time you have TWO bolts exposed instead of just ONE. And the washers should give some added strength.
This tread has filled me with lumps of fear as this is the type of assembly I was considering for my build...
I like LF's solution but may add a couple of steel tubes for the bolts to run through.
It should add to the strength of the fitting...

OSM
 
NICE front mount(s)!

IMHO getting a firm grip on the rear also helps:
 

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That jackshaft setup looks like it must kick butt for off road riding pablo. I'm jealous :)
 
I think the whole bolt-thru-the-frame setup is a bad idea for this reason. It just isn't a solid way to manage the torque from the offset of the driveline, which makes for a sideways twisting coupled with all that vibration, so it's always going to be an eventual point of failure unless the rear mount is dead solid. As I found out coming home today, the front mount doesn't even need to be bolted on to hold the motor in place - so long as it is solidly secured at the rear and unable to twist in the front bracket. (The nuts fell off the mounting studs.)
 
That jackshaft setup looks like it must kick butt for off road riding pablo. I'm jealous :)

I don't mind telling you that with an optional low tooth # right driving gear it will absolutely pull stumps. Even the regular gear in low I can just take off with the clutch and putt around the yard, and still get up to 40 mph with throttle and 2 gears left.
 
Simon- I'm curious, what is that black toggle switch on the top of your CDI? Im very intrigued.
 
SIMON! That is the cleanest setup I have seen. I like the springs on the fuel lines, the mount for the CDI and the killswitch.
 
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