Trek 4500/ GP460 now Staton 18.75 Drive

aw come on man, you were one of my mentors in the begining and gave me lots of good advise, you know you want to hang with us.

besides you could eliminate the whole problem by using the 3.11:1 drive and making up the diff in seconary gearing from the output shaft of that down to the hub gear,you might even be able to use one of Statons 5/8" shaft to freewheel adaptotrs at the top and have that too, and it would be even lighter and neater.

that's what i was going to do until lennyharp made me a deal i couldn't refuse on the inside drive and i'm still glad i took it.

this whole thing with the Dominator is REALLY small potatoes in light of the whole project, it can be done and it doesn't need to be a mess to look at.

BUT

it may already be a TOTALLY mute point, as has been pointed out, why not investigate rotating the drive to 6 oclock. since i have the inside drive this as real merrit of first attempt.

there are mounting issues relative to the lugs on the staton dive box, it might be LOTS more work to pull that off than alter the DOM.

i'm goin to go have a look, later

steve

Wow, This sounds like too much work for me, I dont think I will be turning to the Dark side anytime soon! I will buy belts when needed. Good luck you guys!!!
 
Steve, I was actually considering a nine o'clock position, but I don't know. Would it still be in the way then? For me, I don't know if six o'clock would work because I still want to have enough wiggle room on the chain to allow for shifting from high to low, as well as have a tensioner. I have to get the kit in the mail and see it before I can really make any decisions.

I was also considering the 3.11 drive with a freewheel at the shaft, but found out that they are not really available at the moment, so I went with the regular drive. I also wanted something a bit more "tried and true" ...

Hmmm. I am looking at pics of the staton drive on the site and I guess rotating the thing is not as easy as it sounds.

Well anyway post some pics or drawings if you will so I can stop panicking here.

So if kawasaki999 is as Liam Neeson to your Obi Wan Kenobi ...do I get to be Darth Vader? That's really cool. I'm sticking with it.
 
appye,

having a Staton box in my posession AND access to the Staton site pics of mountings i have a relative advantage and can tell you with certainty that there is NO way you can rotate the OUTSIDE drive. it is and must stay directly over the rear tire so that the output sprocket will be in the correct alignment with the hub sprocket.

you will have to alter the Dom in order to use it at all. once you get the drive box you will see solutions.

my case is some what diff. my engine is going to move approx 2.5"' to the left, putting the mating line of the clutch housing and the drivebox well past the tire/ wheel and the output sprocket in line with the hub sprocket. this position would be the same for either conventional or vertical drive mounting.

the GP460 engine is the SOLUTION to the verticle INSIDE DRIVE mount option, since it doesn't have a fuel tank or other obstructions under it. further, the GP460 has 4 mounting lands under the crankcase. they are parrallel though not level, the clutch side is higher than the other. this is not a problem because you would use the left ( clutch) side as the height and chain tension control and adjust the right side to level from side to side. 2 -1" square tube supports (one on each side ) can be bolted lengthwise under the engine itself, and the standard Staton supports hold up the engine. this will leave the drive box free to go verticle. a secondary strap can then be added from the now lower (formerly forward ) drive box lug and back to the frame to prevent lateral motion. the no wupper lug can be used to provide support to the Dom. mounting bracket.

the only other concern is keeping enough high grade lube in the drive box to ensure that the now upper gears stay lubed. i'm certain that i will be using a synth. non- cold reactive grease.

appye,sorry, i don't have any pics or drawings that will help you right now. stay calm, if you stare at the problems you will not be able to see the solutions

and the comparison is more Men In Black, so don't look directly into the clicky flashy thing.

steve
 
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kawasaki999,

The Dark Side is calling to you, can you hear it. Don't fear, it's your friend. Better wrap your head in foil least we beam mind control waves at you. The ever present Staton satellite is hovering over your house as we speak!
 
Cutting up my chrome dom pipe is the part that I dont like. Sooo May the Forse be with you!

i just outlined 2 options that will work to save the Dom and it's performance/ apearance.

resistance is futile, you will be absorbed.

JK, in the street bike world it's said "ride your own ride" and it extends to allow others to have theirs.

ride this out with us Craig, every engine needs a flywheel to keep it from free reving to it's own destruction.

steve
 
Yeah, it occurred to me as well today that rotation of an outside drive would not work. Perhaps I might be able to rotate, the engine itself, but I don't think so. I know zilch about welding, so if I am unable to get the thing to work or if my welder friend is unwilling or unable I guess I will have to sell it or something. Bummer.
 
Man, I am hoping that I will still be able to use my dom pipe. I was all excited about it and am now bummed that I may not be able to. Perhaps I can rotate the engine ninety degrees so the dom pipe sticks downward, but I don't know if this will work either. I will definately check into it once I get my kit.
 
well, the only problem i see with rotating the engine is that you have no choice but a full 1/4 turn and will the carb work right straight up and down ?

also does it look like there's going to be enough room for the Dom. to fit along side the tire /wheel on the right ? being that the further back you go on the Dom the wider it is you may still have the drive box contact issue anyway.

world of roses ain't i ?

steve
 
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