Chain Tensioner Chain Tensioner

I am starting to think that replacing the chain with a good quality #41 would be the first major upgrade that one should do during assembly!

That is one of the first items I replaced with #41 chain and also replaced the carp kit tensioner with a spring return tensioner, so far about 500 trouble free miles, and havent adjusted the chain once...........


http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=10735
 
That is one of the first items I replaced with #41 chain and also replaced the carp kit tensioner with a spring return tensioner, so far about 500 trouble free miles, and havent adjusted the chain once...........
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=10735
Sometimes I wonder if some of the 'stretch' some people are seeing is actually the stock tensioner failing on them. Personally I have about 250 miles on my stock 415 chain and seen no change in tension since using the shims. Granted, I do have the smaller engine, but I am working it pretty hard hauling my 230lb (okay, maybe 240lb) butt up and down the side of a mountain every day.

I do like that spring loaded tensioner, though, and will probably pick one up next time I get a chance just to have it on hand in case I am feeling lazy if my chain does start to stretch/wear.

I think we can all agree that the stock tensioner will not work without, at the very least, some tweaking. At the bare minimum you will need to wrap something around the chain stay or bolt it on or do something to keep the tensioner from rotating. My first batch of bent and broken spokes was within 5 minutes of my initial install because I did not have the tensioner seated firmly enough. Even after a few modifications and getting everything lined up perfect I never felt I was able to trust it.
 
I have actually thought the same thing about the stretching that people have mentioned on here. From reading the posts, I expected to have to adjust the chain after 20-30mi, but I have gone almost 200mi so far without any change in the tension either. I am also using the stock 415 chain that came with the kit.
 
I just went to the shim idea on mine and ditched the tensioner alltogether. The chain tensioner is completly unneccecary. If you make your shims small enough, you basically have an infinite level of tensions that you can get through a combination of adding/removing shims, and removing chain links. Those stupid stock tensioners have got to be the most pointedly dangerous part of the in-box kit. mralaska has got it in my opinion. Getting rid of the tensioner smoothed my ride, removed a dangerous spoke tangle hazard, and most importantly simplified the entire opperation. Anytime you can engineer a solid metal solution to a problem, it's going to be the better mouse trap. Oh and I'm using the stock chain. I'll let everyone know if it stretches.
 
I got rid of my chain tensioner almost immediately and I haven't regretted it. One single-speed, coaster brake type and the other a multi-speed derailleur type. Neither one has given me any trouble. Every now and then the chain throws. I put it back on the sprocket and ride away. dirty hands the only trouble. When it becomes a bit too frequent, then I tighten by pushing the wheel back a bit.

I'm a bit reluctant to actually advise doing it because a thrown chain does have the potential to be dangerous. But the stock tensioners are no good at all. And my bike has been ridden many miles almost every day since April with no real problems.
 
I got rid of my chain tensioner almost immediately and I haven't regretted it. One single-speed, coaster brake type and the other a multi-speed derailleur type. Neither one has given me any trouble. Every now and then the chain throws. I put it back on the sprocket and ride away. dirty hands the only trouble. When it becomes a bit too frequent, then I tighten by pushing the wheel back a bit.

I'm a bit reluctant to actually advise doing it because a thrown chain does have the potential to be dangerous. But the stock tensioners are no good at all. And my bike has been ridden many miles almost every day since April with no real problems.
I would really think about putting some shims in if I were you! A strap of 3/8" aluminum from the hardware bin and a couple minutes with a hacksaw you can make that chain rock solid unless you have clearance issues with the engine itself and have no room to adjust it, in which case a spring loaded tensioner might set you right up.

For the sake of new or prospective builders reading this thread, I want to make it absolutely clear that while I advocate removing the tensioner, I do NOT advocate simply removing it and doing nothing to take up the slack. A chain not lined up and properly tensioned is not a desireable situation and does carry the potential of both human and mechanical risk.
 
As a matter of fact, reading this post has made me think a bit about it. Maybe shims, maybe some other way of getting more precise chain tension.

I probably better not think about it too long.
 
If I can adjust my rear wheel, will I be better to take out excess links and adjust the rear wheel as needed...opposed to having a tensioner and/or shims. The slot where the nuts and bolts go into the frame looks like this /o/..the o is the bolt that can be adjusted at an angle. On a tangent, can someone explain these shims to me?
 
If I can adjust my rear wheel, will I be better to take out excess links and adjust the rear wheel as needed...opposed to having a tensioner and/or shims. The slot where the nuts and bolts go into the frame looks like this /o/..the o is the bolt that can be adjusted at an angle. On a tangent, can someone explain these shims to me?
Removing one link makes your chain one inch shorter, so if your rear wheel has three eighths inch adjustment it has the ability to compensate within one link worth of adjustment. (Moving the rear wheel three eighths inch takes up three quarter inch of slack)

I am not sure I understand your bolt diagram. On my bike the rear wheel is a pain to adjust because of the derailer. I have lost track of how many tanks of gas I have been through but I have only tinkered with the adjustment once since inserting the shims. Follow this link for shim pictures:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=154751&postcount=14
 
Thanks for the shim tip. I have "it only goes in one place" drop outs on my frame. The stock tensioner sucked from day 1. Now that things have settled in I was able to shorten my chain enough to remove the tensioner and just one shim did the fit. I feel alot safer and it reduced the vibrations too. Thanks again, I'm too old to be biting the pavement.
 
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