Schwinn stingray Muffler routing

[mikaleno]

Get rid of the tensioner altogether,you dont need it. Just remove a link or 2 from your chain, I can see from your bike pics you have lots of horizontal adjustment on your rear fork that you can tighten it no problem by pulling your back wheel back..The tensioners are a constant source of problems and you are better off without it.

Hmmmm, I guess you're talking to me, (use the quote buttom). I'm running the 36T sprocket and without the tensioner you will hit the bottom of the brake Assembly.

 

[MotorMac]

chain

Oh, ok see that now, can you put permanent non -adjustable roller on the bar the brakes are mounted on and still use the back wheel to adjust tension?

 

[mikaleno]

Yes, I was thinking of welding a bracket on the swing arm behind the brake, just to hold the roller. That would push the chain away from the brake assembly. You have two chains to contend with so it might be easier to move the engine back or forward to deal with the slack issue.

 

[Ant27]

I'm really new to building, and I was wondering why he wouldn't just remove links? Would that throw off the ratio or something? Or is it just easier to put the tensioner on?

 

[mikaleno]

Lose It!

I'm really new to building, and I was wondering why he wouldn't just remove links? Would that throw off the ratio or something? Or is it just easier to put the tensioner on?

OK, I got fed-up with the tensioner again and it's off. The chain only hits the bottom of the brake a little. The chain runs much better/quieter and less drag. Yes remove the links, that won't change the ratio, sprockets do that. But that will only get you so much adjustment. So I loosen the motor mount in front and pull the engine forward/back a little to get the right tension. Then I put a bolt on both sides of the front mount U-bolt and lock it down. Runs great now!

 

[MotorMac]

suggestions

OK, I got fed-up with the tensioner again and it's off. The chain only hits the bottom of the brake a little. The chain runs much better/quieter and less drag. Yes remove the links, that won't change the ratio, sprockets do that. But that will only get you so much adjustment. So I loosen the motor mount in front and pull the engine forward/back a little to get the right tension. Then I put a bolt on both sides of the front mount U-bolt and lock it down. Runs great now!

Good for you Mikaleno!,I think you will find it much easier this way,just a suggestion from looking at the picture is to put 2-3 washers in the bolts where the brake arm is attached to the frame,that should raise the brake arm up and clear of the chain, also you can probably remove some metal from the brake frame bracket with a file or Dremel tool if the chain is hitting that too?

 

[mikaleno]

Good for you Mikaleno!,I think you will find it much easier this way,just a suggestion from looking at the picture is to put 2-3 washers in the bolts where the brake arm is attached to the frame,that should raise the brake arm up and clear of the chain, also you can probably remove some metal from the brake frame bracket with a file or Dremel tool if the chain is hitting that too?

Hey, not a bad idea! I don't really need much more clearance. Putting on the washer's and a little dremel grinding should do it!

Thanks' MM, two heads are better than one!

 

[stude13]

great discussion.