Simple chain drive setup...

Ok, so I found that bike chain is #40. Now I'm looking for the shaft extender bushing. Do you know how long of one I will need or is that going to depend solely upon which centrifugal clutch I choose. Also should I be looking for a clutch that is smaller than 4"OD?

Thanks again for all your help!

The length of the bushing varies depending upon the width of the clutch. I bought the clutch for my project that uses the Honda GXH50 without a gear box from http://www.maxtorque.com. They offer a special clutch that has been optimized for use on the Honda motor and will ask you what length shaft your motor has as there are at least 2 different lengths. (1&1/4 and 1&5/8) The clutch I bought from them was the one they offer with a 5mm Metric Timming Belt Driver and happens to be quite wide but the clutch with a #41 Chain driver is probably quite a bit narrower. The cost of the clutch from Max Torque was more than other outlets but came with every thing needed to just mount it right up to the Honda motor. Send them an e-mail or call them you will probably be dealing with a man named Jim Donavan he owns the company and he has alot of knowledge and is more than happy to share and help out.

Why is the OD of the clutch important if you are not using one of the gearboxes?

ocscully
 
Ok, I have this idea for a rack mount setup, looking for your thoughts as to whether it will work or not...

I will be using this engine, so keep this in mind....

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com...haft+Overhead+Valve+LOS+7000+RPM+No+Fuel+Tank


The engine has a 5/8" driveshaft on it which is very nice! I want to use a standard 5/8" bore centrifugal clutch commonly used for gokarts and such with a 10 tooth #41 chain sprocket on it as pictures here...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200310372_200310372


I would run the chain down to a standard 44 or 48 tooth sprocket (standard HT kit sprocket) on the back rim.

Of course I will have to work in a tensioner somewhere for the chain, but should not be too difficult.

I have read a few threads on here that say you can run a #41 chain on them.


My questions are...

Would this setup work on a bicycle?

Is a gear ratio of 4.4 to 1 good for power?

Just to be sure, this is a standard CCW engine, correct?


Sir, you need more gearing near 18.75:1 for this 7,000 rpm engine, as mentioned by others. A 10-tooth drive sprocket and a 188-tooth rear sprocket will do the job....


or use the entire Titan drivetrain to facilitate the install.:D
 
Am I missing something, a 10 tooth drive sprocket to a 44 tooth driven sprocket on a 26" wheel, ain't gonna work. I know I've got something wrong, what is it?

I'm going to be making my own gear reduction jackshaft (possibly shiftable) which will be running to a front freewheel crank similar to SBP's system. I don't have the numbers figured out yet, I'm just trying to figure out where I'm going to get the parts.

Oscully: I wasn't too sure if I was going to be losing too much energy be adding on the addition rotational weight of an over sized clutch. I didn't know if people were using smaller ones or not. Thanks a ton for the info and the link I will definitely check them out!

Sorry about taking over this post, I didn't want to make anyone upset by bringing up an old subject in a new post. I'll start another thread with all the info I've gathered.

Thanks for all the help everyone!
 
Last edited:
The Hilliard Clutch will work. It's a 2300 RPM clutch which may be enough for the idle. If not, you can get upgraded 3000RPM springs.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/GoMiniClutchExt.html/mv_session_id=vusciXWa

The Hilliard clutch is a BRUTE. It's rated for 13HP! With only over 2HP from the Honda, the clutch should last much longer. I have that same clutch (but 3/4) on my 6.5HP 196cc engine, and as long as I treat it good and lube or replace the bushing as needed, the clutch lasts.

I just got that same clutch for my 80cc rack-mount project. The engine uses the same 5/8 shaft like the Honda.

Also, if the engine is too wide, you can use a jackshaft to get a double-reduction and also properly align the power to the wheel.

Also, get an extra bronze bushing to extend the clutch life.
 
www.staton-inc.com

Honda GXH50 Adaptor QXA 1.5 inch thick

Aditional Image(s):

Adaptor CNC machined for the Honda GXH50 QXA type engine. This has four drilled and tapped holes 6 mm x 1.0 and four counter drilled holes for the 1/4-28 FINE thread x 1-1/2 inch long socket head cap screws. This is a custom machined part so the Honda GXH50 can be used with the Staton-Inc drive systems like our 18.75 to 1 gear boxes, friction drive kits, double bearing clutch housings and some other brands of equipment.
This adaptor can now be used without cutting the shaft of the engine to use with the Staton brand gear boxes and our friction drive kits.
Price: $55.00
Quantity
Color Gray

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Honda GXH50 Clutch Rotor Super Duty 3 shoe
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6 MM x 18MM Fender Washer, Zinc
1/4-28 x 1-1/4 FINE thread, Socket Head Cap Screw.

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6 MM x 18MM Fender Washer, Zinc
Double Bearing Clutch housing Assembly 1/2 inch OD Shaft
GC Gear & Chain Drive kit - NO ENGINE
Gear Box 3.11 to 1 reduction small compact gear box
Honda GXH50 49.3 cc 2.10 hp 15.8 mm - 5/8
Honda GXH50 Clutch Rotor 76 mm OD, 15.8 mm - .62204 / 5/8
Honda GXH50 Clutch Rotor Super Duty 3 shoe


I know this is an old thread; hope someone can reply. I just bought one of these honda gxh50's and did not realize it had a longer shaft length which seems to be incompatible with all the various kits. on the staton site today they offer the adapter, three shoe clutch and nearly everything else i should need; the price is 129 dollars. i did not anticipate this extra cost or i might have opted for the smaller engines that mate up with everyone. is there another way round this? is having a machine shop shorten the shaft counter productive or just as expensive? some other adaptation?
For all you who have been helping me along with my first build, let me say that i'm going with a friction drive (this is where i found out about the adapter). I intended to have two bikes anyway so i can still ride if i broke down; with the friction, i can put it on the bike i have now and roll. I will save up and buy something nicer later on. Maybe the gearboxes will be perfected so buying one will be a no brainer. I did just notice that staton sells their gearbox separately; i have not heard on the forums of anyone utilizing it with their build. So it's friction for now and if i have to have the clutch adapter, fine, i'll just accept it and move on.

thanks again guys
 
Ok, I have this idea for a rack mount setup, looking for your thoughts as to whether it will work or not...

I will be using this engine, so keep this in mind....

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com...haft+Overhead+Valve+LOS+7000+RPM+No+Fuel+Tank


The engine has a 5/8" driveshaft on it which is very nice! I want to use a standard 5/8" bore centrifugal clutch commonly used for gokarts and such with a 10 tooth #41 chain sprocket on it as pictures here...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200310372_200310372


I would run the chain down to a standard 44 or 48 tooth sprocket (standard HT kit sprocket) on the back rim.

Of course I will have to work in a tensioner somewhere for the chain, but should not be too difficult.

I have read a few threads on here that say you can run a #41 chain on them.


My questions are...

Would this setup work on a bicycle?

Is a gear ratio of 4.4 to 1 good for power?

Just to be sure, this is a standard CCW engine, correct?

If the clutch doesn't work to the engine rpm you can always adjust the rpms or add more springs to the clutch, there is a **** of a difference between 37 bucks and hundreds.
the ratio for the sprokets can be overcome by adding a shaft somewhere, Im still trying to figure out where.
 
The Hilliard Clutch will work. It's a 2300 RPM clutch which may be enough for the idle. If not, you can get upgraded 3000RPM springs.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/GoMiniClutchExt.html/mv_session_id=vusciXWa

The Hilliard clutch is a BRUTE. It's rated for 13HP! With only over 2HP from the Honda, the clutch should last much longer. I have that same clutch (but 3/4) on my 6.5HP 196cc engine, and as long as I treat it good and lube or replace the bushing as needed, the clutch lasts.

I just got that same clutch for my 80cc rack-mount project. The engine uses the same 5/8 shaft like the Honda.

Also, if the engine is too wide, you can use a jackshaft to get a double-reduction and also properly align the power to the wheel.

Also, get an extra bronze bushing to extend the clutch life.

ZnsaneRyder, the hilliard clutch will NOT work , the shaft is almost 1" short when the rotor and housing are mounted on the engine.
 
Maybe I should mention that the hilliard clutch is no good for the honda 50cc, that's better.
 
im running a 10 tooth clutch to a 60 tooth rear sprocket it powers along at 35 mph i had tried to runn a 10 to 44 but the bike had to be running and rolling to get it to go it wouldnt start from stand still motor just died
 
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