Modifying The Staton Gearbox For 5:1 Gear Reduction

[5-7HEAVEN]

Hats off to you, kerf. Staton advised me to drill the hole exactly as you mentioned with your good idea.

 

[kerf]

Please let me know how it turns out, it sounds like an option that would be useful.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

kerf, I actually thought of buying an inside-drive gearbox, so this is a MUCH cheaper alternative. Ya can't go wrong with the cost of Staton's gearbox cogs.

 

[mlcorson]

A technical question: How would you (exactly) match the hole you'd have to drill in the case with the gear shaft? Does the shaft need a bearing in the case?
-Mike

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

A technical question: How would you (exactly) match the hole you'd have to drill in the case with the gear shaft? Does the shaft need a bearing in the case?
-Mike

Kerf had a suggestion on the first page, which was exactly what Staton suggested. I was thinking about having a competent machinist drill the hole.

Then you replace the existing intermediate shaft with the $29.95 Staton extended shaft and re-use the same bearing.

This saves you $260 plus shipping, the cost of a newer Staton gearbox model.

 

[loquin]

Is there a seal around the 'new' shaft?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Well, I haven't pulled the gears out, but I can't see any seal from the outside. Dave Staton did not mention any, and I haven't seen any on his website.

FWIW, there's grease in the Staton gearbox and I haven't seen any leak out.

 

[kerf]

Ah yes, a seal, answer is no. The bearing is sealed and and has an interference fit to the housing but not the shaft. If oil lubed, oil will leak between the shaft and inner bearing race, the reason Staton uses grease. I've mixed the Staton grease with a couple of ounces of 90w gear oil to thin it out a little. Seems to help keeping lube on the small cogs and I've seen no ill effects from lube in my clutch. DetonatorTuning wet lubed his box and I think it worked ok.