Duralube ... yes or no?

[graucho]

Nothing beats a good old fashion oil change and filter.(Air/PVC also) Over the years I have stayed
away from Oil additives. But I always do use diluted dosage of fuel additive. (I swear my area's
gas stations have carpy fuel) I also get 200,000 trouble free miles with straight dino-oil.
Once again, it seems it will always will come back to personal opinion.

 

[Mountainman]

never worn one THING out -- this rings a bell

It got oil changes every 5,000 miles with whatever dino-oil was on sale. No additives needed.

well does this ring a bell

even though many still insist on the every 3 thousand mile change
I have been doing the 5 thousand for a long time now

have never had one engine wear out on me

question comes to mind
with the 3 thousand changes many are doing -- how much oil are we wasting

also -- I haven't bought one engine big or small
where the man calls for any oil additives
oh yes - I have bought some from time to time
probably a big waste of money

ride that thing

 

[mikem]

Straight 30 Weight Dino sounds pretty good.

Thanks for all the input everybody. Looks like the we're leaning toward just using good old dino oil and changing it often ... hard to go wrong there.

Happy Valley mentioned reading the following quote:
"
Q: WHAT IS THE BEST OIL FOR 4-STROKE SUBARU ENGINES?
A: The best engine oil for your petrol-powered, 4-stroke SUBARU engine is a high-quality, mono-grade 30W oil and NOT a multi-grade. The rings on new engines will not bed properly if a multi-grade oil is used - you will just end up with a beautifully glazed bore!

Q: WHICH OIL SHOULD I USE FOR THE SUBARU EH025 & EHO35 SERIES ENGINES?
A: These engines are used on brushcutters, blowers, blower vacs and portable vibrator shafts. The owners manual suggests 10w-30 oil. Unfortunately weather temperatures above 20 degrees can cause excess oil in the air filter of these engines. We suggest (as per the service manual) that 30 grade mono be used consistently. "

I have also heard this over the years about 30 weight mono. I did this on a 1977 Chevy Malibu that I bought brand new and drove for about a dozen years with good results. Would be good to know if anyone else recommends mono grade 30.?

NOTE: Just heard from another member that using mono grade 30 oil should NOT be used in newer cars (1980's and newer) ... would cause oil starvation problems. See post below. Thanks arceeguy.

 

[arceeguy]

Thanks for all the input everybody. Looks like the we're leaning toward just using good old dino oil and changing it often ... hard to go wrong there.....

.......I have also heard this over the years about 30 weight mono. I did this on a 1977 Chevy Malibu that I bought brand new and drove for about a dozen years with good results. Would be good to know if anyone else recommends mono grade 30.?

For a small utility engine, straight 30W might be fine - even recommended by the manufacturer but I would not use it in a car that was manufactured within the last 20 years or so. (unless the engine is worn out and burning oil and/or has a bearing knock)

The bearing and piston/cylinder tolerances of car engines are a lot tighter than they were back in the 60's and 70's. Using straight 30W or a thick 20W-50 oil will result in oil starvation problems in all but the most tropical of climates. Save the thick stuff for worn out car engines that need the heavy oil to mask excessive bearing and piston/ring/cylinder clearance issues.

Modern fuel injected car engines burn very clean, so clean that it is hard for someone to try and kill themselves through asphyxiation by running a car in a their garage. This means that engine oil service intervals may be extended under normal conditions. My old minivan had a carburetor, and ran a long time with 5000 mile intervals. My company cars get oil changes at 8-10K mile intervals with dino-juice and they last over 150K before they are sold off. I'm sure their new owners could run them many miles more too!

I know some people would rather be "safe than sorry" - but changing oil every 3K is very wasteful. A short interval like that is only necessary if the car sees frequent short trips, especially in cold weather.

 

[Mountainman]

good old 30 weight

I have also heard this over the years about 30 weight mono. I did this on a 1977 Chevy Malibu that I bought brand new and drove for about a dozen years with good results. Would be good to know if anyone else recommends mono grade 30.?

NOTE: Just heard from another member that using mono grade 30 oil should NOT be used in newer cars (1980's and newer) ... would cause oil starvation problems. See post below. Thanks arceeguy.

when in doubt I usually just grab some grade 30 oil
here in San Diego -- weather does not change a whole lot
in our summers -- 30 weight would seem to be the best
cooler winters -- letting that 30 warm up a little before take off

if anyone needs the Robin 35cc manuals in attachment form
feel free to pm me

have a good day as you -- ride that thing

 

[mikem]

Weather Matters

Good point Mountainman. Wish you hadn't mentioned warm San Diego weather though ... 18 degrees here with over 2 feet of snow. Now that will make a friction drive slip!

 

[arceeguy]

A friend of mine was having problems with oil pressure sensors leaking on his new car. Turns out that the problem was his use of 10W-40 oil where the manufacturer specified 5W-30. When the engine was cold, the oil pressure skyrocketed due to the tight bearing clearances in his new (precision manufactured) engine. This increased oil pressure was "blowing out" the oil pressure sensor and delaying oil circulation to the top end of the engine causing the engine to clatter for several seconds until oil got to all areas of the engine. After he switched to the recommended weight, all of the "problems" disappeared. He had apparently stocked up on 10W-40 oil (for his old clunker) when it was on sale.

As far as the extended oil changes go, I would like to add that you should check to see if your engine has inherent "sludge" problems. Many Toyotas and turbocharged VW/Audi are prone to contaminate oil and form sludge. Come to think of it, I wouldn't go over 5000 miles on any turbocharged engine. Those turbo bearing are rough on oil! (Synthetic recommended if not already factory mandated.)