Stuck valve

Traveler

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Vandalia, Ohio and Kissimmee Florida
I recently bought a vintage Whizzer engine. I knew there would be some fix-up needed when I bought it. One problem is a stuck valve, which stays open all the time. It's been 50 years since I had a Whizzer, and I need some advice on how to un-stick the valve. Any advice is appreciated.
 
Hi Traveler,

I am from Dayton originally. You might try soaking the valve stem with WD40. Spray some from the bottom in the tappet cavity, and also through the exhaust port. You can place a small piece of wood on top of the valve and gently top it with a hammer [don't over do it, just barley bump it], then spray again and slowly work the valve stem inside the guide.


Good luck,
 
Stuck EX Valve

I’ve had stuck Whizzer exhaust valves several times on barn fresh stuff, and the good news is, that if you follow Quenton’s advice most of them will free up without engine disassembly. Be sure the IN valve is wide open before attempting to tap the EX valve down, otherwise you might be tapping on it when in contact with the cam. Once moving, they usually free up rapidly with generous applications of WD40, through the EX port, to the top of the guide.
 
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Thanks for the advice on the stuck valve. I thought about the light tapping with a pice of wood on the valve after applying something like wd40, or Marvel Mystery oil, but didn't want to try that unless people with more experience had suggestions.

I don't remember for sure, since I only had the head off the motor for a few minutes, but I think it's the intake valve. It's the one opposite the one with the compression release lever, which seems works fine.

I had a Whizzer when you could buy a used one for under $100. I paid $25 for a pacemaker in 1958.

I am close to retirement now, and always had it in mind to get a Whzzer bike, or restore one. I am starting with the engine. I think it is an H, but not sure. How do I post a photo of the engine?
 
Stuck Whizzer Valve

Traveler,

Just reverse the procedure for the IN side, i.e., if the EX valve is on the opening ramp it's fine to tap the IN valve. The IN valve would typically be even easier to free than the EX valve since there is less carbon build-up and corrosion present in the much cooler running IN guide. They are usually not stuck very tight, and any motion tends to loosen them easily (probably a light tap with a plastic screwdriver handle would free it up). Use any low viscosity petroleum penetrant you want. You will not hurt anything by tapping the valve head squarely. The truth of the matter is there is a better than even chance that the guides and the valves are junk anyway, so don't fret about it. This is a very non-critical undertaking. Lube it, tap it, work it, and it will be free. I've seen several Whizzer barn jobs with stuck valves, that with a little lube and tapping, started right up.

Look on the engine case near the oil drain plug to see the model/serial number and let us know what you've got there (probability suggests you have a model H, but you never know).
 
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The serial number is H 60200. I guess that means it is an H. After following the advice I received here, I did remove the head again and got the intake valve unstuck. I squirted in some WD40, and lightly tapped the valve with a block of wood and a hammer. I am in Florida until mid March. When I get back to my home in Ohio, I have more proper tools to work on the engine. In the meantime, I am searching for motor mounts, exhaust, a coil, and a clutch pulley.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
 
good job

I did remove the head again and got the intake valve unstuck. I squirted in some WD40, and lightly tapped the valve with a block of wood and a hammer

good job

when Mountainman was a little rocker
grandpa bought a few engines home with this same stuck valve problem

he was amazed how easy the fix

one man's nightmare another man's (( dream come true thing ))

he loved to ride those THINGS too !!!
 
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