Bike is nearly perfect NOW....

Lonewolf

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Joined
Feb 9, 2009
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North CarolinA
Been playing with different set-ups with chain and tensioner. Used tensioner like it came, that sucked. Put tensioner on pedal chain, that sucked. Made boht chains equally tight, you guessed it. That sucked,too. Me and one of my good buds that I work on the same shift with have been playing mad scientist and I am sad to say that he beat me. My idea works but not as good as his. The best thing about it is that it cost less than $5 and it is the CATS MEOW.
No more chain slapping, too loose, too tight, binding up, chain pop offs, or whatever it is that can make you kind scared when going 35 down a big hill. All you do is use the stock tensioner bracket only you add one piece of metal about 3-4" X 1"-1.5" on a stud and attach the roller bearing tensioner to that. You hook a spring from top right corner of metal bar to rear upper frame and I swear it rides almost like a Yamaha sccoter only $3000 cheaper. Add a bolt on bottom left of original idler bracket to keep tensioner from goiung too far down and throwing too much slack in chain. When you ride this thing and look down and see the spring and tensioner moving you will then see why the stationary tensioner is such a sucky idea. Puts less strain and drag on engine and takes out 90% of the jerking when going down a hill or coasting. I will try to get some pics out soon but have been too busy today building and riding. I swear if you do this you will be shocked how SMOOOOOOOTH your bike will ride. I am not selling these. I just want everyone who is having a problem to be able to get it fixed. If everyone would post their great accomplishments for all to see pretty soon you will see one of these MB as the pace vehicle for DAYTONA 500.
 
here is the pic!
 

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I am guessing of course, but your method may give the very best possible chain to sprocket break in. The chain is never allowed to ride up the teeth, but never too much tension. I may do mine like that.
 
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