The exhaust that came with kit wouldn't work since I wanted to keep the original crank set up or was it because I am a collector of wide three piece cranks? 1" electrical flex, straping, bolts and heat paint.
That's a practical solution Nsideus but how did you get a tight fit around the manifold? Where did you get a manifold?
Those rear mounted tanks that B-E Com sell might kill 3 birds with one stone.
1. you get a free fender
2. you get the tank off the top bar so your knees don't hit it
3. I've forgotten what the third one is.
I too have a considerable collection of 3 piece cranks and am always looking for a use for them other than deep sea fishing sinkers.
With the original crank on the bike do you have to pedal with your legs out wide to avoid the motor?
Hey Irish, the flex fits snugly on the pipe I twisted it on tackweld on the end. The manifold is from the pipe that came with the kit cut off about 3" out. Pedal extenders. Have you installed any with the thumb choke? The throttle and choke connection brackets at the engine need to be rebent to keep cables from rubbing and to keep the choke from locking the throttle cable at start.
Hey Irish, the flex fits snugly on the pipe I twisted it on tackweld on the end. The manifold is from the pipe that came with the kit cut off about 3" out. Pedal extenders. Have you installed any with the thumb choke? The throttle and choke connection brackets at the engine need to be rebent to keep cables from rubbing and to keep the choke from locking the throttle cable at start.
Crikey Nsideus - I would never have thought of pedal extenders in a month of Sundays yet they are so obvious. Thanks for that info.
I have built kits that come with that horrible cable choke. What a no-brainer that is. I managed to get a few of the old choke levers from either the Grubee guy in Sydney or from B-E Com - I forget which one. I change the chokes back to the old style because I don't want a thumb operated choke on my already cluttered handlebars and the cable sicks out at right angles and gets in the way of my leg and catches on things. I think I built one bike using it (see pics) but I use the plastic levers now - I have Honda levers off Honda Carbys but they are very tall. You can get away without using that dreadful cable because the choke is spring loaded to the open position and you could hold it closed with your hand for starting and then let go once the motor has started. Not the most convenient method but neither is that stupid cable. If you look closely at the photo you'll see I managed to get the choke cable to clear the throttle cable. It can be done. I think I did some bending like what you describe.
Don Grube told me the other chokes broke so he came up with the cable. I attach the opicture he sent me. Can you imagine the hamfistedness it takes to break the grey plastic choke lever? Looks like it was broken in freight handling to me.
Did Don post on this forum to see if people wanted his cable choke? Does Jacqui Onassis wear black much? Is the Pope a protestant?
Don't get me started. It all adds up to extra work but when I posted a thread on the cable chokes I don't remember if people liked them or not. Maybe everyone loves them except myself.
Irish, yea I made the connections work with some tweaking of the brackets and every mm I could squeeze from the throttle cable. The choke cable sticking out the side like I am thinking WTF. Definetly a design built and never tried.
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