OEM Whizzer to Shimao Rear Hub Conversion

[go-rebels]

Ref: 2005 NE5

I've just switched rear hubs from the factory pressed in job to the Shimano CB-E110 but I must now modify the OEM brake lever to the Shimano style with the star hub. The OEM style has a rectangular hole with circular arced ends.

I'm going to have a machine shop mill out close to a scribe line then I'll file to fit.

Is there an easier way?

 

[jbcruisin]

I did the same thing to mine. Here's the link.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=20458

 

[go-rebels]

This task is not easily done. My machine shop needed to use a solid 3mm carbide end mill to do the majority of the work and I needed a few hours time with a new file to finish it up. My Whizzer has been down for nearly 6 weeks on this conversion. No problem, though... work has kept me tied up most days so I couldn't ride anyway.

 

[jbcruisin]

I did mine in an hour with a file after I heated it with a little propane torch to soften it.. But then I had to harden it again which wasn't a problem either.

 

[go-rebels]

The hardness of the material wasn't so much of the problem when filing. It was more the difficulty related to getting the shape correct, with lots of trial and error fitting.

 

[koolwhizzer]

Whizzer rear coaster brake swap out

Hi all,
Just to share a secret with you. I came up with a way to use your current whizzer brake arm in which to use the rear brake stop switch. I purchased the worksman rear coaster wheel that comes all laced up with the heavy duty spokes. Heres the good part. The stock whizzer inner coaster assembly fits perfectly inside the worksman rear hub. What i am saying here is disassemble your stock rear whizzer coaster brake out of your wheel. Get the worksman wheel and gut the insides out of it. Clean and regrease the coaster assembly, install and adjust your bearings and you are good to go. I have done this suscessfully on many whizzers. You may want to see it the shimano rear hub matches up because if it does your coaster brake arm problem goes away. By the way when you file the coaster arm you lose strength in the meatal therefore maybe having a dangerous safety issue. Not a good thing.
Hope this helps.
Al

 

[jbcruisin]

My Whizzer coaster brake would barely stop my bike. When I used it, it was very spongy. Like I would brake with my pedals & they would go back & not get solid, just keep going back. It's hard to describe it. When I switched to the Shimano & hit the coaster brake I can lock the rear wheel with no problem. Wouldn't using the Whizzer guts in a Shimano wheel give me the same spongy brakes?

 

[go-rebels]

Hi all,
By the way when you file the coaster arm you lose strength in the meatal therefore maybe having a dangerous safety issue.
Al

What???

 

[jbcruisin]

Okay, I didn't understand that safety part either. I didn't make it any thinner. I just took an oval shaped hole & opened it up to the spline specs on the hub. Enlighten me if you can?

 

[go-rebels]

OK, I just have to say it... I've got a Master's degree in mechanical engineering with a strong background in metallurgy. There is absolutely no safety issue with the type of rework we are discussing.

Another note: I had a machine shop mill out the rough shape of the new spline and they had to use a 3mm solid carbide end mill to make any progress. Their high-speed steel bits just could make any progress through the hardened material. Just an FYI should you try this yourself...