Clutch Problems with my bike! CLutch And Chain cover!
- Thread starter tskrem
- Start date
xRegginoy
Member
Are you missing one of the screws on the clutch cover? I don't think it'll be able to operate correctly without it.
ok, i am not sure about my clutch setup?? pics below..
also i have a problem with my chain cover. the screws screwed up! its annoying!
Pics
Your clutch cable won't last long like that, it needs to approach straight by the cylinder. That hard left is not correct.
Cover? Missing a screw? Please use words to explain.
cabinfever1977
Member
the clutch cable is suposed to angle toward the right side of engine and run along the side up to the handle bars,not curved and to the back.
sorry. no i couldn't get 2 screws off and now they have been stripped slightly and my screwdriver slips....
i cant put the chain in by holding the clutch cos that clutch doesn't work.
what do i need to change on the clutch. (sorry i am noobie)
MikeJ
Member
Hi tskrem -
I recommend three things...
1) To get that clutch plate off, you will have to do what the big engne builders do in a similar situation... Get a larger diameter drill and drill off the heads. Drill only deep enough to remove the screw head from the screw shank. That will allow you to remove the cover plate after you pull the cable out of the clutch arm. The two remaining studs will have to be grabbed tightly with a common pliers (probably a long one) or a vise-grips. Soak them with a penetrating oil for a day or two; this will improve you chances for success. You will not have much stud to work with and it may deform easily. So get the best grip on it you can and turn counterclockwise. If that fails, I recommend you take it to a small-engine machine shop and ask them if they can remove the studs. They probably will charge you.
2) Re-route that clutch cable to run next to the cylinder bottom cooling fin. That angle you have is going to cause you lots of trouble. Find and study pictures of other bikes to see what I mean.
3) Throw that small-diameter spring you have between the threaded post and the clutch arm away. The carburator already has a spring in it. If the clutch cable is routed next to the cylinder fin, the carb spring will return the throttle twist handle to its idle position when you are not holding it.
Once the clutch plate studs are out, some guys recommend going to a harder replacement screw (metric 6mm x 1). Some guys option for hex-head screws.
Good luck. Keep us posted for progress.
I recommend three things...
1) To get that clutch plate off, you will have to do what the big engne builders do in a similar situation... Get a larger diameter drill and drill off the heads. Drill only deep enough to remove the screw head from the screw shank. That will allow you to remove the cover plate after you pull the cable out of the clutch arm. The two remaining studs will have to be grabbed tightly with a common pliers (probably a long one) or a vise-grips. Soak them with a penetrating oil for a day or two; this will improve you chances for success. You will not have much stud to work with and it may deform easily. So get the best grip on it you can and turn counterclockwise. If that fails, I recommend you take it to a small-engine machine shop and ask them if they can remove the studs. They probably will charge you.
2) Re-route that clutch cable to run next to the cylinder bottom cooling fin. That angle you have is going to cause you lots of trouble. Find and study pictures of other bikes to see what I mean.
3) Throw that small-diameter spring you have between the threaded post and the clutch arm away. The carburator already has a spring in it. If the clutch cable is routed next to the cylinder fin, the carb spring will return the throttle twist handle to its idle position when you are not holding it.
Once the clutch plate studs are out, some guys recommend going to a harder replacement screw (metric 6mm x 1). Some guys option for hex-head screws.
Good luck. Keep us posted for progress.
MikeJ
Member
Let me correct myself.... That small spring has nothing to do with the carburator. (DOH! as Homer Simpson would say.) The CLUTCH has enough spring in it that the external spring is unnecessary. When attaching the cable to the clutch arm, allow a very small amount of free play in the clutch action. You should be able to wiggle the arm just a little bit. This will allow the clutch to apply full pressure during running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fs7...be.com/my_videos_edit&feature=player_embedded
thanks for your comments.
mikej i read somewhere on these forums that when u hit the clutch the sproket the chain sits on should be able to spin??
check out my vid
thanks for your comments.
mikej i read somewhere on these forums that when u hit the clutch the sproket the chain sits on should be able to spin??
check out my vid
all done. i got the cover off. i never would of thought of it but when i was about to pick a drill piece to drill the screw away i noticed a the flat head bit from the screwdriver. i put this drill piece on and then i tryed it. at the first go it slipped out so i thought it wouldnt work. i used a little force and it pulled it right out. now im gonna get some new screws at bunnings tomorrow after school. also some 'slick tape' because me chain slightly toches my frame. now all i need is a new handlebar for my bike because mine is to big in diamiter? how does that work??? anyways thats the update.
Ohh and also:
when i installed the accelerator the golden brass thing that is in the photos for the insterlattion isn't there? is this a problem??
kk ty
-tskrem
Ohh and also:
when i installed the accelerator the golden brass thing that is in the photos for the insterlattion isn't there? is this a problem??
kk ty
-tskrem
