Honda GXH50 in Schwinn D7 Cruiser

Here is my latest Fosscati FG4 Billinudgel Bullet. It has a few improvements from the original one shown elsewhere in that it has a paint job on the tank that is baked on in layers, the hub clamp is 318 grade s'steel, the muffler strap is 318 s'steel, the tank is mounted on a strip of high density adhesive foam tape so you don't need to tighten the tank legs to refusal and damage the tank, all bolts are Aussie steel with locnuts on the end, the springer bolt has a locnut & cotter pin on it so it can't come undone & thornproof tubes & slime in both tyres. This is the 8th Bullet I have built and they all have Honda motors - I doubt the HuaSheng could pull this heavy steel bike but the new G4 gearbox might enable it to. Nobody seems to want the HS motor even though they are 20% of the Honda price once I include for adapting the carb and governor. Personally I don't think the Honda is worth the difference which is about Aus$700.
The chain is still being stretched so the line of it isn't how I like it. I stretch all chains and ride each bike for 200 kms before hand them over to their new owners. I'm not happy with using the Grubee tensioners and need to make that my next focus for change. They are quite OK if used by an experienced person but very dangerous if incorrectly fitted by a novice. The gearboxes all whine to varying degrees - some are really bad.
Anyway this bike is going to a bloke in Darwin which is 3700 kms from where I live. Any volunteers to ride the bike there?
These bikes ride really well and have great balance but I personally prefer the alloy framed Schwinns because they are sportier and more responsive but the drawback with the alloy Schwinn is that the 7.5" headtubes can't accommodate a springer fork and that makes for a bumpier front end.
Oh yes I almost forgot - of the 12 Schwinn cruisers I have bought there have been 13 saddles (one was a tandem) - those dual sprung saddles that have springs just like Madonna's bra - every single one comes apart on day one or day two and I have had to disassemble and reassemble every one with threadloc and fabricated washers etc to get them to stay in one piece. this is a really serious defest in the design and assembly and even though I'm now very good at fixing the saddle it still takes a lot of time before I can be sure the saddle springs won't crunch through the supporting bracket when you are riding the bike. Lovely looking saddles but the old rice farmer story again.
 

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You'll get good cruising speed with a 48T but if you are in trafficked area you'll need good brakes to match. If I was in a trafficked area I might try a 50T. I'm mostly on open country roads or on the highway and a good cruising speed lessens the speed differential between myself & other vehicles and thus lessens the chance of a rear ender.
 
John, I Agree, A Rear Ender Is My Biggest Worry. Thinking About Flag And Strobe Lite, Like On A School But Amber. Ron
 
Please pardon my ingorance, Irish John.
How does one go about taking apart a freewheel sprocket to lube it up with lithium grease? I have never gotten one of them to come apart the few times I have tried.
 
I had one on my gearbox that was loose and I didn't have the red pin spanner wrench to tighten it and I'm not sure how to explain it cuz I dont know the name of all the parts but there was a spring inside that pushes two parts out that allow the sprocket to move in one direction and not the other, when the spring broke those parts fell flat and then the sprocket would spin freely in both directions it just spun on the shaft. I got the red pin spanner wrench from the bike shop and took it apart and Irish John is right, there are a lot of loose little bearings you don't want to loose.
 
Please pardon my ingorance, Irish John.
How does one go about taking apart a freewheel sprocket to lube it up with lithium grease? I have never gotten one of them to come apart the few times I have tried.

You put the freewheel in a vice with the back facing upwards and you use a centre punch to turn the flange anti-clockwise to loosen it. Then you put the whole thing on a white towel on the kitchen table and undo it carefully by hand. When you do it up again you use blue threadlock to keep it from coming undone. Who knows? maybe Don Grube read my posting last year and instructed the factory to use grease and loctite like I wrote - that's standard practice in the industry but China is an exception to any standard.
If you can't undo the flange then leave it and just use the sprocket as it is cos it probably won't come undone during it's 4000 - 6000 km lifespan.
 
I had one on my gearbox that was loose and I didn't have the red pin spanner wrench to tighten it and I'm not sure how to explain it cuz I dont know the name of all the parts but there was a spring inside that pushes two parts out that allow the sprocket to move in one direction and not the other, when the spring broke those parts fell flat and then the sprocket would spin freely in both directions it just spun on the shaft. I got the red pin spanner wrench from the bike shop and took it apart and Irish John is right, there are a lot of loose little bearings you don't want to loose.

I remember posting a thread on the innards of the freewheel sprocket last year with good pics etc.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=14738
Back then there was a batch of badly tightened freewheels included in the 4-stroke kits. Seems to have improved recently.
 
John, I Agree, A Rear Ender Is My Biggest Worry. Thinking About Flag And Strobe Lite, Like On A School But Amber. Ron

We lost a lovely young lady from here recenly to a rear ender. She was hit so hard it took a long while to locate her body. A tragedy caused directly by the NSW Road & Traffic Authority outsourcing the new freeway to Halliburtons and allowing Halliburtons to delete the designated cycleway on a length of 2 bridges to save money. An idiotic decision made in 2000 that has cost one young life and will probably cost more lives before they start to see the consequences of their incompetence. The RTA has outsourced so much that they really have no in-house road engineering skills left at all except those relating to the financial side of outsourcing contracts. They outsourced all their brains!
Here is a picture of what they allowed on the highway design & how it caused the fatality.
 

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Great pictures of the freewheel inner workings. It must have been the circlip that broke on mine so the pawls laid flat and didn't engage the outer cluster. It's nice knowing the names of these parts so I don't have to say the flapper thing, and things like that.

Here's another cheap bolt story. I was attaching the freewheel sprocket to the shaft of my second gearbox with the supplied bolt, I seemed to have trouble getting the bolt seated in the hole so the sprocket didn't have any side to side slop on the end of the shaft and by tightening the bolt a little too much, which at the time didn't seem like much but the head of the bolt broke off leaveing the rest broke down in the shaft. Fortunately, I was able to drill it out with a bit so as to not ruin the threads in the shaft. Needless to say I upgraded to a much better replacement.
 
Flange unscrews clockwise not anti-clockwise

Gearnut I made a mistake the flange unscrews clockwise not anti-clockwise. I'll PM you to make sure you know. Sorry about that slip up.
 
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