Blue wire to black wire nightmare

[Fabian]

Pic attached of magnet orientation when flipped over and located on crankshaft keyway with piston at top dead centre.
Compare this pic to the other pic of magnet in the original position when located on the crankshaft keyway.

I've yet to flip the magnet over on the new motor to see if this solves the problem of a non running motor when blue wires and black wires are connected to each other.

I'm out of ideas if this does not solve the problem.

Fabian

 

[Fabian]

Ok,

I've flipped the magnet over and the motor runs with blue wire to blue wire and black wire to black wire, but still makes no power, misfires and won't idle - feels like it runs worse than before.
It won't run at all with black wire connected to blue wire and black wire connected to blue wire.
I even connected white wire to blue wire and blue wire to black wire but it did not run at all.
After that the motor does not run with wires connected either way.
With sparkplug removed from cylinder and resting on cylinder head, the spark is weak and intermittent.

For gods sake, will someone give an answer to this god d****d son of a B****H, piece of garbage engine.

I can't take any more of this frustration, considering i've tried ever god d****d possible combination and nothing works.

Faian

 

[Fabian]

This is driving me insane

I've flipped the magnet back over to the original side; the way it was installed on the engine from the factory.

The engine runs the same as before, with blue wire connected to black wire and black wire to blue wire, but just as before, it misfires, has no power and won't idle.

Every single possible combination of options has been tried, unless there is one that i've missed.

Why did the previous engines electrics work perfectly and even with the electrics from the old motor installed on the new motor does the new motor not want to run properly.

It defies understanding

Fabian

 

[furament]

flip it over so it runs blu to blu dry your conectors with a heat gun and see if it helps the lack of power could fule but some times u just get a dog

 

[srdavo]

Why did the previous engines electrics work perfectly and even with the electrics from the old motor installed on the new motor does the new motor not want to run properly.

Just a thought.... if it starts & runs, it doesn't sound to me like an electrical problem.
Double check your carb:
the needle & jet
And the needle valve & float assembly.

 

[Fabian]

THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN FIXED

I put the bike on my car trailer and took it down to the shop where i purchased the engine.
For 2 hours their shop mechanic tried everything - there was much head shaking, swearing and cussing from the shop mechanic after he admitted defeat - the engine missing problem was unsolveable even after every single component was changed over for brand new components.

In the end they gave me another engine.

After installing the 2nd, replacement engine, it fired up on the first go with the black wire connected to the black wire and the blue wire connected to the blue wire; the engine idled beautifully and runs like a dream.

I AM AT A TOTAL LOSS TO EXPLAIN WHAT COULD HAVE EVEN BEEN THE PROBLEM

IT'S TOTALLY AND UTTERLY UNEXPLAINABLE!

If anyone ever has a situation where the engine only runs with the blue wire connected to the black wire and the black wire connected to the blue wire, PLEASE, do not even attempt to try and work out what the problem is - JUST RETURN THE ENGINE AND ASK FOR A REPLACEMENT.

Fabian

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I've been watching this thread wondering what in the electrical system could cause that problem. After reading what tests you went through I've come to the conclusion.....It couldn't of been a electrical problem, had to be something else, if ALL the electrical parts were either disconnected (kill switch) or changed out with known good parts, it had to be something else. The whole electrical system is such a simple system. I sure would like to know what it was causing the problem... An inquiring mind wants to know.

 

[Fabian]

Hi Al.Fisherman

As much as i don't want to say it - it can't be something else other than electrical because the carburettor has not been changed.
After installing the original carburettor on the new engine, it fired on the first go and with the wires connected, blue to blue and black to black.

The carburettor could not be the problem as i rebuilt the thing just to be sure, when trying to sort out the what was going on - carburettor was clean as a whistle upon disassembly.
Just riding the pushbike, it would have been immediately evident to you that it was an electrical problem - carburation does not miss so instantainiously and so agressively.
The shop mechanic knew straight away that it was an electrical problem.

YES, i want to know what was going on too - don't like to be defeated by something so seemingly simple.
After 2 days of sheer stress, you no longer have an inquiring mind, let me tell you.

The worst thing to compound frustration is when you have a completed a course in Certificate II electronics and cleary understand that the ignition is a simple modular system - the simplest method is to keep replacing components till the problem is found, then replace the suspect part to verify that the problem reoccurs - at least it should be simple!

I've solved some interesting electrical problems on cars but nothing like this Chinese engine has EVER brought me so close to using the 20 pond sledge hammer.

Fabian

 

[Al.Fisherman]

THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN FIXED

"the engine missing problem was unsolveable even after every single component was changed over for brand new components. Fabian

This right here says that it was not an electrical problem...something else ...yes, but not electrical. That is as far as the individual components are concerned.

 

[Fabian]

Unfortunately that is a bad diagnosis.

The original carburettor on the engine ran perfectly
The replacement engine had the original carby installed on it and it failed to run properly - the original carburettor was disassembled, inspected, found to be perfectly clean, lightly blown down with compressed air and reassembled.
The engine still did not run properly.
The second replacement engine had the original carburettor installed and it ran perfectly.

This verifies that the carburettor can be eliminated as a source of the problem and the nature of the problem was totally consistant with electrical issues.

Secondly - the 1st replacement engine was run with the fuel tap in the "on" position then turned to the "off" position whilst running under some semblence of load until the carburettor bown ran out of fuel.
The engine continued missing with full fuel flow through to restricted fuel flow through to running out of fuel.

The engine was missing consistantly and repeatedly till the carburettor bown was empty.
There was no change in the nature of the engine.
If the carburettor was flooding, then the engine would have run better towards the end of fuel flow to the main jet.
If the carburettor was running lean, it would have lost power (the power that it had) and the misfire wouls have increased and the engine would have run better with the choke slowly closed off.

This process of diagnosing a carburettor problem has been well and truely tested in the process of eliminating potential sources other than electrical.

The Carburettor was not the problem and the operation of the engine made it clear that the electrics were involved

Fabian