Pull Start Anyone with pull start installition experience ?

Porkchop

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I started installing a pull start and centrifugal clutch on my Grubee tonight. The thingy that ataches to the crank shaft will not go all the way down before it bottoms on the 4 screws that bolt down the magneto. It won't go down far enough to even get the retainer nut started on the shaft. I got the starter from zoombicycles. I reviewed their installation instructions before I bought it, so I knew there might be some issues. I have a plan that I think will work, but just curious if anyone has done this, had the same problem and how they resolved it. My idea is to replace the 4 screws, that use a flat blade screw driver, and replace them with hex heads with a thin head if I can find such, torque them down and take a Dremmel tool and grind off what I need to get that thing to fit flat. I think if I grind the screws that are in there now, it might take to much metal away so that I won't be able to get the them out later. With hex heads that shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks for any thoughts or ideas !

..... PC .....
 
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Hey PC

What I did was put a lock washer between the mag. and

the thingie and it left just enough thred to get the nut on.

Make shure to use lock tight...POPS
 
The "THINGY" is called an adaptor so I found out. Anyeway, my adaptor is bottoming out on the 4 screws that hold on the magneto. It won't go down onto the shaft far enough to get the lock nut started on the threads. I bought hex head screws to replace them in hopes that I can grind down the heads enough to make clearance and still have something left in case I ever need to pull them out in the future, and we know I will. I haven't tinkered with it yet today. I also found out earlier today that I have clearance issues with the centrifugal clutch. The only thing I can do that I can see is get a much thicker gasket. I filed down the 3 pins, and still not getting clearance. On my particular motor I could have left the pins alone. The cover that came with the clutch kit is hitting what I'd refer to as the pressure plate of the clutch. Even after grinding the 3 pins flush with the pressure plate. These crappy time engines are not for the mechanically chalenged ! Nor those without a good selection of tools ! I sure hope this thing, if and when I get it completed, runs better and is more reliable than the ease of the assembly has been.
 
I just remembered what I did. I bought a star lock washer and put it between the mag and the bell then used a reg. nut on the shaft with lock tight. When you snug it up it crushes the star lock washer to hold it in place but still gives enough clearance to clear the mag.

As for the clearance problem on the other side I did not have an issue but I read that some people used 2 gaskets.

IMHO it would be a lot easier to use the washer method than grinding...POPS
 
Duh on me ! I got mine together tonight using hex heads as I mentioned. I didn't have to file away much. I wish I had thought about using star washers. Very good idea. I think I'll redo mine and install one of those. I started working on the centrifugal clutch. If you look at the insdtall. inst. on zoombicycles web site, I did exactly what it says, but the cover rests against the pressure plate. The only way I know to fix that is make a gasket somewhere 1/8" and 1/4" thick. I'll work on that tomorrow if I can. Thanks for the star idea !
 
Pull Start Kit.

Would it work to drill holes in the "thingee" / adapter so it will fit flush to the magnet rotor?

I will soon know the situation as Zoom shipped one to me today. I have a 48cc that somebody gave me. Its ignition module has a 98 date in it. Maybe I need to put it in a museum for MB? Think of all the China parts we could gather for displays. From one build, I have two driven sprockets, one rag joint, one transmission, one teardrop gas tank, one one piece crank, sprocket and bottom bracket bearings and two clutches plus enough metric bolts to keep one neighborhood Home Depot in business.

Jim
 
Duh on me ! I got mine together tonight using hex heads as I mentioned. I didn't have to file away much. I wish I had thought about using star washers. Very good idea. I think I'll redo mine and install one of those. I started working on the centrifugal clutch. If you look at the insdtall. inst. on zoombicycles web site, I did exactly what it says, but the cover rests against the pressure plate. The only way I know to fix that is make a gasket somewhere 1/8" and 1/4" thick. I'll work on that tomorrow if I can. Thanks for the star idea !

Your very welcome and thanks for the comp.

Watch out on the bell pullstart. It has quite a bit of play on the shaft.
If it is not in the right place the rope will hang up on the recoil.
Litely snug the nut and then put the cover on and gently pull the rope .
If it recoils good then pull the cover again and snug down that nut. Try to center it as best as you can.

As far as the other side go's I had no problem with rubbing after grinding on the pressure plate.I guess some fit and some need an extra gasket??

What I did was use some extra thick green marine greese on the pressure plate gear and I put quite a lot. I have not run the motor yet. If you look at the bottem of the PP. cover, there is a spot where you can tap in a greese zirt. I would do that as it looks as it would be right over the gear to give it a squirt now and then as it would be a big hassle to take it all apart just for greese!

The reason I put a lot of greese on is I took apart the CF.clutch and reversed the spring in it so it freewheels both ways. This way it will not peddle start, only pull start, but you can then do away with the manual clutch lever, cable, arm , pin etc. and you can still peddle the bike without turning over the motor.

If you never disengage the manual clutch from new..("Can't get clutch to disengage because it's locked tight") I believe it will last forever. Hope this all helps in your build!!

PS. You might also consider drilling a hole where the star nut clutch adjuster is and put a rubber plug, (cap like) so you can get to it with out takeing it all apart....POPS
 
Would it work to drill holes in the "thingee" / adapter so it will fit flush to the magnet rotor?

I will soon know the situation as Zoom shipped one to me today. I have a 48cc that somebody gave me. Its ignition module has a 98 date in it. Maybe I need to put it in a museum for MB? Think of all the China parts we could gather for displays. From one build, I have two driven sprockets, one rag joint, one transmission, one teardrop gas tank, one one piece crank, sprocket and bottom bracket bearings and two clutches plus enough metric bolts to keep one neighborhood Home Depot in business.

Jim

Hey Jim

It's just to easy to use a star lock washer in there as a spacer. I would go that way....POPS
 
Would it work to drill holes in the "thingee" / adapter so it will fit flush to the magnet rotor?

I will soon know the situation as Zoom shipped one to me today. I have a 48cc that somebody gave me. Its ignition module has a 98 date in it. Maybe I need to put it in a museum for MB? Think of all the China parts we could gather for displays. From one build, I have two driven sprockets, one rag joint, one transmission, one teardrop gas tank, one one piece crank, sprocket and bottom bracket bearings and two clutches plus enough metric bolts to keep one neighborhood Home Depot in business.

Jim
I like this idea the best so far. I probably would not do this myself. I'd have a machine shop do it. One of my best friends owns a machine shop. Problem is getting him to do stuff. This is my first frame mount build. I've read where these things vibrate like craqzy to start with. I don't have a clue if the preciness of the holes would affect the vibration or not. I would think yes at the RPM's these things turn. I'll probably leave it alone for now, build a bike and evaluate it. If I like it then I'll worry about fine tunning things. Only take about 5-10 minutes to completely disassemble on of these little engines. not much longer to bolt it back together.
 
Pops, I talked to zoombicycles yesterday about my issues. Andrew told me I still need the manual clutch along with a pull start and a centrifugal clutch. I know about the one way bearings on the clutch. I've been experimenting with mine while it's under construction. I do not see in any way why I need a manual clutch. I don't care what so ever about being able to jump start the engine. I don't see how it can be jump started with a centrifugal clutch. Am I missing something here ?
What spring are you referring to that you turned around ? I have taken every nut, bolt and screw out of this engine, except I completely left alone the whole clutch actuating assembly. However I did remover the pressure plate and clutch plate. So right now it's all still fresh in my mind. Might not be tomorrow though. Ha ! Ha !
Seems like this stuff is hit and miss. People have different problems with different engines I guess. Sopunds like Q.C. and inconsistantcies to me.
Thanks !

..... PC .....
 
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