Engine still VERY slow and boggy after new carb and plug

[tacoshell4]

Good news, I removed the muffler to rule out the backpressure theory and it turns out the bike performs like a beast without it. By that I mean better than it has ever before. Of course it is very loud and I've read that it is not good for the bike to run without one. So I guess the only thing I need to do do now is somehow dismantle and clean my pipe. That's much easier said than done. I've tried flushing it with gas twice, and a good deal of black sludge came out. The bike still performs the same, however, so there may be some solid carbon deposits that aren't dissolved by the gas and must be manually removed.
I also bent my float lever slightly before removing the exhaust, which didn't have any noticeable effect. Still, I would like to know how to distinguish between a lean and a rich condition to prevent any damage.
- nick

the cat is prob jammed up

 

[Toysaresuss]

Best way to fix it is put the old stuff back on.

 

[mastafoo]

I've tried using a pressure washer, dish detergent, and even flushed it with gasoline many times and cannot get the clog out. I remember when it was new I could blow into it easily, now it is very difficult. I hit it with a wrench and threw it on the ground to loosen the carbon and that only partially worked, I saw chunks of it come out. It's still the same, though...Any tips on how to clean a pipe or get the guts/discs out?

I'm considering getting a new pipe for $35 if I cannot clean this one out in the next week...

 

[GearNut]

If you really do not care about the outside finish, and do not mind painting it with Hi temp exhaust header paint when done, then you could try to do what I used to do to my 2-stroke dirt bike exhaust.
Build a nice fire for the evening. After you get a good bed of coals going (5 or 6 logs) throw the pipe into the center of the coals. Let it roast for a while.
It will stink and smoke. I recommend avoiding the smoke. After an hour or so remove it from the fire with a piece of long stiff wire or metal tubing. Let it cool down.
Fish a good length of discarded bicycle chain inside it (wire the chain so you will not loose it completely inside the pipe! you may never get it out!) and use the chain to knock loose all the krispy krud you can out of the inside.
If your pipe is a catalyst type, I do not know if any of this will help. It is the best method I know of though for 2-stroke exhaust.

 

[tacoshell4]

If you really do not care about the outside finish, and do not mind painting it with Hi temp exhaust header paint when done, then you could try to do what I used to do to my 2-stroke dirt bike exhaust.
Build a nice fire for the evening. After you get a good bed of coals going (5 or 6 logs) throw the pipe into the center of the coals. Let it roast for a while.
It will stink and smoke. I recommend avoiding the smoke. After an hour or so remove it from the fire with a piece of long stiff wire or metal tubing. Let it cool down.
Fish a good length of discarded bicycle chain inside it (wire the chain so you will not loose it completely inside the pipe! you may never get it out!) and use the chain to knock loose all the krispy krud you can out of the inside.
If your pipe is a catalyst type, I do not know if any of this will help. It is the best method I know of though for 2-stroke exhaust.

nice dude!

 

[crackers]

Gear Nut my engine was flooding and I had to adjust the float to get it to stop but it was doing this for awhile. Can you explane how to go about blowing out the crank case. I have a compressor but don't want to damanage anything. Your's is the first post I've read about blowing out the crank case. Makes since through and that raw fuel can't be good for the bearings. Thank's Crackers

 

[GearNut]

Actually the excess fuel will not hurt the bottom end components, it just will not let the engine intake/ tranfer cycles function properly. Kinda like breathing through your nose with sinuses full of snot.
1. Remove exhaust pipe.
2. Remove sparkplug.
3. Look down sparkplug hole and slowly turn engine over untill the piston is all the way down at the bottom of it's stroke.
4. Use an air nozzle with a long skinny tip and carefully guide it down into one of the transfer ports in the cylinder. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42424
A thin rubber hose attached to the nozzle will work too (aquarium air hose). Be very carefull to not scratch anything inside there!
5. Obviously be carefull of the fuel spray that will be blown out of the engine.
Blow out the engine for about 2 minuits.
6. Reassemble everything.

 

[crackers]

Thanks GearNut, I think I better go with the gun and the hose, sounds like it woud be safer for me. I should notice a performance increase if its not breathing, its running a lot better just not being flooded all the time. Haven't really ran it any length of time just started it and it sounded 100% better. Thanks again

 

[crackers]

I bought the Harbor Freight gun yesterday and blew it out today, I used a full length of shrink tube on the end of the gun, fit great. Nothing but air came out so everything below must be ok. I just needed the peace of mind knowing my crank case wasn't half full of gas. Years ago I had a 390 Ford engine that had a leaky diaphragm in the manual fuel pump and it was leaking gas into the crankcase. I found this out after the explosion, there was a backfire at the carb. and then a loud boom, blew the hood open to the safty latch, blew the valve covers off (the valve cover bolts were still bolted into the heads it just ripped them off, blew the dipstick up and droped the pan. So I'm a little gun shy of fuel in a crankcase. This probably couldn't happen in one of our little engine's but I needed the peace of mind. Thank's again