First build - success! (HT+Landmark)

Just finished my very first MB build. "RAW" 48cc HT motor kit. Schwinn Landmark cruiser from Walmart. I think between the kit, bike, and other bits and pieces (including a few tools), I've got about $250 invested. Nothing special around these parts, I'm sure, but it's mine, and I'm proud of it.

I rode it around a bit today, even though it's cold in Chicago. It runs smooth and quiet, although a little underpowered for what I was expecting. After it's broken in, and I can back off the oil in the mix, it'll probably be better.

My only real complaint about the kit is that the kill switch doesn't seem to actually kill anything. The only thing I'd change about the bike is the bars; these bars are like walking behind a plow.
 

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The front mount was made from a piece of welding stock from Farm and Fleet, and a 1.5" muffler clamp (which is the perfect size). Took me like an hour and a half to cut through that hunk of steel with an electric drill and a cutting wheel.

The only other real problem I had was thinking I needed to bend the exhaust, when all I needed to do was hose clamp it to the frame to pull it out of the way just a bit.

I didn't see any pictures on that post you linked to.

Oh, I just bought a dual pull brake lever, too.
 
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i deleted the kill switch on mine all together with a new metal throttle housing from thats dax....
 
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can test the switch operation by taping the wire ends to the leads and pressing the button. (it should jog the needle when you set to ohms and press the button.)

Use this wiring diagram to help your kill switch problem if the switch is good.

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Just finished my very first MB build. "RAW" 48cc HT motor kit. Schwinn Landmark cruiser from Walmart. I think between the kit, bike, and other bits and pieces (including a few tools), I've got about $250 invested. Nothing special around these parts, I'm sure, but it's mine, and I'm proud of it.

I rode it around a bit today, even though it's cold in Chicago. It runs smooth and quiet, although a little underpowered for what I was expecting. After it's broken in, and I can back off the oil in the mix, it'll probably be better.

My only real complaint about the kit is that the kill switch doesn't seem to actually kill anything. The only thing I'd change about the bike is the bars; these bars are like walking behind a plow.
 
A $200-300 mo bike is great

I really enjoy all the deluxe and custom choppers on here, but I think a $100 something beach bike and a sub $200 motor kit is just beautiful. Real transportation for less than the price of a crumbly broken down used car. Something mostly user serviceable, or at least easy to maintain. And you can lock it up for dear life inside your apartment or something, unlike a full size motorcycle (hard to get upstairs and in elevators) Hooray.
Congratulations.
 
My switch is wired with the green wire attached to the front engine mount instead of being spliced into the black/ground engine wire, and the yellow switch wire is connected to the white engine wire. I suppose I could splice the green into the black, maybe it's not grounding well enough.
 
If you are running the switch to white (engine magneto) you need to ground it to a frame or engine bolt etc with a proper terminal end for the screw size you are using. Or you can splice into the CDI ground line as shown, making sure you use good quality butt crimps and shrink tubing.

A very good reusuable alternative is these! wire caps from Home Depot ($7-10 box of about 10-20 depending on size) http://www.posi-lock.com/

[IMG/]http://www.posi-lock.com/NewFiles/bigred.jpg

If you run the kill switch wires spliced into the CDI loop, you just take the power away from the ignition capacitor or what electrical part is in there (maybe a voltage transformer). The black or green wire on kill switch is ground, the other (colored or 2 colored or color and stripe) is the positive. This worked fine on mine, and left the hot white wire capped off and sealed, in case I want to run a 6v light later. When I touch the switch it instantly cuts off fire, but I can recover it quickly if I want by letting go and using momentum or pedaling to restart. (like after a hard stop)

[quote="Nougat, post: 248375"]My switch is wired with the green wire attached to the front engine mount instead of being spliced into the black/ground engine wire, and the yellow switch wire is connected to the white engine wire. I suppose I could splice the green into the black, maybe it's not grounding well enough.[/QUOTE]
 
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re: not grounding well enough

Does it kill or affect the motor, but just not decidedly kill it instantly at the push of the switch?

The trouble might be the ground like you say. Unless you pulled on any of the wires, its probably just where its mounted is not making a good ground. you can try using another bolt hole or drilling a little bitty hole and using a self tapping sheet metal screw. The smallest one will work if the motor is grounded well to the frame (the paint might stop this. Thats why I used the CDI interrupt).

Good luck. I am new, but I worked some with mowers and weeders before this hobby.

My switch is wired with the green wire attached to the front engine mount instead of being spliced into the black/ground engine wire, and the yellow switch wire is connected to the white engine wire. I suppose I could splice the green into the black, maybe it's not grounding well enough.
 
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