I haven't read of anyone else kick starting there ht engine's on this forum before. Make's me think it mabe a bad idea but seams to me it has to be a lot easyer on the complete drive train than popping the clutch, which in my opion is hard on the clutch and also the main reason the chain stretch's and the chain tensioner gets pulled towards the spoke's or sometimes into them. The sudden torque on the engine when the clutch is popped has to contribut to or be the cause of the engine mount studs snaping off.
How I start mine is by bringing the crank arm on the left side of my bike (this is with me facing foward next to the bike) to the 10 O-Clock position, engaging the clutch, lifting my bike by the rear of the seat untill the rear tire is off the ground by a couple of inch's and kick start it, AS SOON AS IT STARTS DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH! and sit the bike back on the ground. I have a thatsdax F50 47cc and it starts first kick (even when it's cold) every time. I don't know why anyone would start one differently. But if there be a reason please let me know. If not, give it a try and let me know whar you think!
How I start mine is by bringing the crank arm on the left side of my bike (this is with me facing foward next to the bike) to the 10 O-Clock position, engaging the clutch, lifting my bike by the rear of the seat untill the rear tire is off the ground by a couple of inch's and kick start it, AS SOON AS IT STARTS DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH! and sit the bike back on the ground. I have a thatsdax F50 47cc and it starts first kick (even when it's cold) every time. I don't know why anyone would start one differently. But if there be a reason please let me know. If not, give it a try and let me know whar you think!
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