GXH50 Frame Mount Kit, After-build questions

[Sketch]

Ok so besides the small issue of what looks like a seized piston but needs further investigation, I have my list of things that I wrote down in the shop and brought to my computer to type in. Thoughts, comments, help, feedback Please!!

Here is the list, as I wrote it down while brain storming, sitting on a stool and staring at the thing:

1. Do away with the engager lever? I have seen comments in the forum about keeping 'engaged' all the time. So I thought, why not synch the sucker up with the provided contraption, zip that down near the engine, and do away with the eye-sore engage lever on my handle bars. I have done that. Thoughts?

2. Chain tightness. I think the instructions say to adjust to 1/2 of play. Please comment. A little too tight seems to stress on the gearbox. Too loose and the sucker bounces around.

3. Governor pin. I removed the entire governor mechanism, as per not mentioned in the instructions but required nevertheless. I have a pin with a clip on it remaining. What was I supposed to do with that - nothing?

4. Muffler - gasket? Not mentioned in instructions. I made a gasket thanks to my mechanical engineer father's extensive collection of 'stuff'.

5. Muffler brace, included in kit, but not mentioned in instructions (I am so tempted to draft my own instructions and go through edit cycles here on the forum, it's nuts how much is left for the mechanical improviser to improvise...anyway). So I attached the brace - a flexible clamp with a twist between the angle difference between the frame and the muffler. Is this torquing on the bolts where the exhaust meets the cylinder? I'm almost sure it is.

6. Oil in air filter. I didn't wash it and oil bathe it yet, should I? (see performance concerns, which I assume I'll get to below)

7.Where is the best spot to ground the kill switch. I think I've got this one worked out, but thoughts on this would be interesting.

8. Gas. So premium is a bad idea. I want a couple more miles per hour. But, what I've read here in the forums says don't use premium.

9. Mixture screws, idle is fine (assume the piston can move) so should I mess with any of the carb settings?

10. Oil? 10-30 for winter? thoughts?

11. Gearbox oil. I greased with general purpose gear grease, then added 50 to 80 cc's of 10w compressor oil. Recommendations?

12. Performance. I would love to go a little faster. But right now, with the engine appearing to be seized, I am not too concerned about performance, I'd rather just have my engine back...so I'll explore the performance question later.

13. Comment: Throttle solution - I did not add a piece on top of that black plastic thing, I am happy with the performance of the lever-length of the "black thing" with it's two holes. I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.

 

[HoughMade]

As for the the engager, look at the first pic below.

Governor pin- I left it as is with the clip on it.

I ran a ground wire directly to the engine block for the kill.

Let me know how that compressor works out.

Premium fuel will do nothing for you- nothing. It is only necessary if there is so much compression that the fuel/air ignites before the spark fires (detonates). You engine is made for 87 octane and going higher will do nothing.

My bike sits still in the winter so....?

 

[bamabikeguy]

Got a quirk on the Honda GXH50 I just installed on that Rhoadescar....

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=24880

Once last evening, then again this morning, going down a slight grade, throttle off (or just a tad above idle), the engine stopped after a jolt in the asphalt (where they cut a waterline through and left a speed-dip).

Smells like it flooded. Last evening it took 4 pulls, this morning about 8 (plus about 2 minutes to fiddle with wires and cuss a bit), then it cranked, with that slight flooding feel to it.

Question is, do slight jolts disturb some kind of carbfloat or whatever it is in there??

Thanks in advance, I'd like to advise the customer so he don't call me if it happens down the road.

btw: this is a fresh engine, so I'm presuming everything will settle down after a few hundred miles.

 

[HoughMade]

I suppose it could disturb the float. What I do know is that some people have had trouble with is the low oil switch cutting the spark on bumps...but the fact it was difficult to start later leads me to believe that it is not the low oil switch. Keep in mind that if you are going down a hill with the throttle on enough for the clutch to be engaged (or it is a manual clutch engaged), it will flood because the engine will be sucking in more fuel than it is using....but the bump.....darn, what does that mean....anyhoo, maybe check the float level and make sure it is completely cutting off fuel.

 

[bamabikeguy]

What I do know is that some people have had trouble with is the low oil switch cutting the spark on bumps...but the fact it was difficult to start later leads me to believe that it is not the low oil switch.

Dave Staton called yest, said the offending part is the "oil sensor". If I read the instructions, & the problem gets out of hand, there is a way of disconnecting it.

 

[bamabikeguy]

a repeaterpost, because this was my first Honda 50:


p.s. an amateur oil observation.

Like always, I change that oil before the customer picks it up, and advise him to do at least 3 "early going" oil changes within the first twenty tankfuls or so, which exceeds what the manual tells you.

But I've got to say, that oil was sure thin and yellowish yesterday, moreso than on a Robin.

If I owned one, I would change it 5 times in those early days.