unboxing 49/52cc engine

Al means that the stock screws /studs and nuts are junk. I don't have one, but there are a lot of posts about stripped out stuff on these kits- especially the engine mounts and head studs.
 
masterx1234 said:
so your talking about the ones that come with the bikemotorparts kit? ok thanks for the heads up
Click to expand...
... is that a HT engine?

The Chinese use junk hardware (what do you expect anyways), something like a US grade 3. Use a US grade 5 (grade 8 is overkill) or a metric 8.8 which is close to a US grade 5. The cheap hardware will expand and contract during engine operation. I would change out as a MINIMUM... 4 cylinder studs and nuts, 4 engine mounting studs and nuts, 2 exhaust studs and nuts. I also changed the intake studs and nuts, but supplied isn't a problem. All except the cylinder nuts I use a nut followed by a nylon locking nut. Cylinder, just a single nylon locking nut...DON'T OVER TORQUE. Me myself I use red loc tite on all studs. Use studs not bolts, I wouldn't lock tite a bolt on these engines. Would you believe the rear sprocket bolts/nuts on the kits I've bought were grade 8.8

If you take time and do the above I'd bet you won't have the nightmare problems you will read here. Another thing that is as important...make sure the the engine mounts to the tubes evenly even if a front mount needs to be made. I first mount the engine on the down tube and make the front mount to fit. This way your engine mounts won't be in a bind as that is also a cause of broken engine mounts. 8mm hardware 17 (204 inch pounds) foot pounds MAX I use 150 inch pounds. 6mm 50-60 inch pounds (4-5 foot pounds). If you experience the engine rotating on the tubes, I've made a fix for that also. My engine can't rotate due to torque.
 
Al.Fisherman said:
... is that a HT engine?

The Chinese use junk hardware (what do you expect anyways), something like a US grade 3. Use a US grade 5 (grade 8 is overkill) or a metric 8.8 which is close to a US grade 5. The cheap hardware will expand and contract during engine operation. I would change out as a MINIMUM... 4 cylinder studs and nuts, 4 engine mounting studs and nuts, 2 exhaust studs and nuts. I also changed the intake studs and nuts, but supplied isn't a problem. All except the cylinder nuts I use a nut followed by a nylon locking nut. Cylinder, just a single nylon locking nut...DON'T OVER TORQUE. Me myself I use red loc tite on all studs. Use studs not bolts, I wouldn't lock tite a bolt on these engines. Would you believe the rear sprocket bolts/nuts on the kits I've bought were grade 8.8

If you take time and do the above I'd bet you won't have the nightmare problems you will read here. Another thing that is as important...make sure the the engine mounts to the tubes evenly even if a front mount needs to be made. I first mount the engine on the down tube and make the front mount to fit. This way your engine mounts won't be in a bind as that is also a cause of broken engine mounts. 8mm hardware 17 (204 inch pounds) foot pounds MAX I use 150 inch pounds. 6mm 50-60 inch pounds (4-5 foot pounds). If you experience the engine rotating on the tubes, I've made a fix for that also. My engine can't rotate due to torque.
Click to expand...

Looks like he is unboxing a copy of a Mitsubishi TL engine, not a "HT" engine (generic in frame chinese bicycle engine). The Chinese made Mitsubishi and Honda engine copies are of good quality. No "hardware mods" needed.
 

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