SimpleSimon
Active Member
Agreed...but.When mounting rear drive on a trike one other thing to consider is what I call tire hop. One wheel is diven the other is not. When going into a sharp turn toward the drive wheel it will tend to hop or spin as its speed is reduced in the turn but the drive does not reduce it.
That issue is pretty straightfoward to deal with. Split the axle into two half-axles, and put a free wheel capable sprocket on the inboard end of each. Just forward of that mount a "mid-drive", which can be simply a jackshaft, or can be a muti-speed internally geared hub. In line with each of your inboard free wheel sprockets on the half-axles, mount sprockets on the mid-drive (jackshaft or hub, either one). This will allow power (either pedal or engine) to be transferred to each half-axle, but if the bike is rolling faster on one wheel than the other, as in cornering, the free wheel sprocket spins on the axle on that side. I call this a poor man's differential, as it in effect is a differential.
Lovely part is, if the mid-drive is a multi-speed hub, a primary jackshaft just forward of it can be used to combine both the pedal and power side inputs, giving you the full range of gearing either pedalling or under power. However, I would NOT reccomend you use a more tha 7 speed internally geared hub for this, as the more gears there are in a hub the tighter the internal tolerances become and the thinner each gear is made - strength of materials can become an issue. Not mainly because of engine torque, but rather because of transmitted vibration along the chain loop, which increase metal fatique and shortens hub life.
I know this works, as it is what I have - an HT engine driving a jackshaft to which the pedal crank loop runs, then the output of that goes to a Shimano 3 speed internally geared hub with ring sprockets mounted to the spoke flanges in line with free wheel capable sprockets on the inboard ends of the half axles.
One of these days I need to get a camera.