Replacing the Spark Plug

im 15 and i know how to gap a plug
just make sure you have a feeler gauge
and add up the numbers on the guage right
i like my plugs at .16
its problly one of the simplest things you'll learn
 

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im 15 and i know how to gap a plug
just make sure you have a feeler gauge
and add up the numbers on the guage right
i like my plugs at .16
its problly one of the simplest things you'll learn

Although you being 15 and knowing how to gap a plug is nice, but the majority of this generation has been brought up PC orientated. Now you tell him to use a feeler gage, someone I'm sure by the original question doesn't own one much less knows what its used for. The plug gage in the picture is by far the easiest and the most inexpensive to acquire. And .16 is 16 hundreds not 16 thousands... .016 which I feel is a tad too close.
 
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Although you being 15 and knowing how to gap a plug is nice, but the majority of this generation has been brought up PC orientated. Now you tell him to use a feeler gage, someone I'm sure by the original question doesn't own one much less knows what its used for. The plug gage in the picture is by far the easiest and the most inexpensive to acquire. And .16 is 16 hundreds not 16 thousands... .016 which I feel is a tad too close.

hmmmm...ima check my spark now haha where do u think i should gap it for best performance
 
I use a gap of around .028 BUT depending on the engine a couple of things can happen (the larger the gap), so watch for them. First it may be a little harder to start, secondly it may miss on top end, if either of these occur close the gap little by little (.003 to .005 at a time) , experimenting, along the way. Also remember the wider the gap the more voltage is needed to fire across the electrodes...the ignition system on these engines are well known and leave much to be desired. The wider the gap the better the fuel/air ratio will burn. There is a happy medium.
 
I use a gap of around .028 BUT depending on the engine a couple of things can happen (the larger the gap), so watch for them. First it may be a little harder to start, secondly it may miss on top end, if either of these occur close the gap little by little (.003 to .005 at a time) , experimenting, along the way. Also remember the wider the gap the more voltage is needed to fire across the electrodes...the ignition system on these engines are well known and leave much to be desired. The wider the gap the better the fuel/air ratio will burn. There is a happy medium.
thank you
 
Where do you live that replacement plugs dont come with a screw top?

Seems pretty weird, they'd save about 5c and make it grossly inconvienient to use them (say, if broken down).. Unless I've misunderstood you..

But basically, if its tightly screwed in, and the plug fits, and (most importantly) it runs, then obviously you're fine.

In this link you will see a NGK plug, if you check the Specifications you will see that it is a solid top and not a screw top.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...park-Plug-NGK_19650123-P_N3411I_P|GRP2041____
 
are you guys talking about the part of the plug at the top of the white part the part were the current runs through?

Yes I'm talking about the top of the plug (terminal) on top of the white part (known as the insulator)....
 

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