Hi all, just got my 66cc kit today, went to check on how it will fit on my huffy good vibrations beach cruiser, the frame is to wide for the motor, when the rear mount is flush the front mount is still 1.5 inches away, is there an adapter one can buy for this??
Frame too big!
- Thread starter butch100
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Lazieboy
Member
Grubee 66cc and Huffy
Hey check out my pics. I ran in to the same issue in front. both of my builds have different motor mounts for the same Grubee motor.http://s1019.photobucket.com/home/lazieboy1/index
Hey check out my pics. I ran in to the same issue in front. both of my builds have different motor mounts for the same Grubee motor.http://s1019.photobucket.com/home/lazieboy1/index
Lazieboy
Member
Custom bracket
Might need to make a custom mounting bracket, or have some welder or Sm. engine mechanic make you one. go thicker than 1/8 or it might snap due to bad vibrations my first two did.
Might need to make a custom mounting bracket, or have some welder or Sm. engine mechanic make you one. go thicker than 1/8 or it might snap due to bad vibrations my first two did.
OK, I see, was trying to think of a way without drilling into the bike frames though..
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
Don't drill baby don't drill.....
Short and to the point.
Short and to the point.
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
Hmm, interesting, I might even have something like that laying around, how did it work for you AL, didn't slip around or anything??
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
It works so well that I don't ever mount a engine to a frame without one. Either to raise the engine up or for a correct fit. If you go into my picture albums ... https://motoredbikes.com/media/albums/bucking-bar-custom-front-mount-clutch-roller-boost-bottle.892/ ...you can see where I made a "L" bracket that goes on the right side of the seat tube. The engine can NOT move due to torque. Mounted with a standard muffler clamp. You can tighten the clamp so tight it can and will crush the tube if you are not careful. That is the way they are designed for automotive exhaust systems.
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
I used "angle iron" from a bed frame. It is just the right thickness for strength I wanted. Aluminum would be nice, but if used aluminum I'd have to have it made as I can't make one from steel here at home. The steel I myself can wield. The flat bar came from Lowes, and is the same thickness as the bed railing. The small "L" bracket used to combat engine torque is made from a inexpensive shelf bracket. It is bolted to just the engine. If I had a "New" or fine bike that I didn't want to get scratched, I glue a "small" piece of thin rubber onto the frame itself and have the bracket rest on it.. 6mm studs are to be torqued to 50 inch pounds, this is not (on my frame) enough to have a engine mount tight enough to keep the engine from rotating on the seat tube, so I came up with the "L" bracket. Remember either incorrect engine mounting and or over torquing studs will only lead to broken mounts, stripped stud holes and if you are lucky just a broken stud. Do away with OEM hardware.
Basically stay away from JB on these bikes, yes it can be good in some applications, but I see it as a repair and not a FIX.
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