Member
Chain Tensioner Link
http://spookytoothcycles.com/images/engines/bearing-tensioner-assmbly.jpg
(I know the tensioner is a problem on these kits... I have read plenty of forums on the problems) I too have been having a problem with the chain tensioner that came with my Skyhawk kit I purchased from Spookytooth. This was the 66cc kit that they stopped selling, probably due to the EPA import restriction. The tensioner keeps sliding back down loosening the chain. To the best of my knowledge the sprocket on the rear wheel is centered; therefore, it is not a wobbly sprocket pulling it loose but instead the tug of the engine on the chain. The freewheel portion of the tensioner will no longer tighten, nor will it loosen (but freely spins and the wheel assembly slides up and down the slot if you wiggle it by hand) so it is stuck moving up or down in the slotted groove on the tensioner housing. I know I have a few options.
The first option is to replace it with the mods mentioned on the forums (with a spring tensioner). Though the problems with spring tensioners are that it makes it more difficult to pedal start the engine.
The second option is to replace the 410 chain with #41 chain and use halflinks and avoid use of the tensioner altogether.
The third option that I thought about after really looking at the setup is to take a small metal bar, drill a partial hole so that the end of the bolt on the freewheel pokes into it (does not have to go through all the way, just grips it enough that it keeps the tensioner at the correct height). Next drill either a slotted hole (where I can adjust the tensioner height slightly) or a precision hole at a distance low enough that the top frame bolt will go through. I know I will have to replace this frame bolt with a longer one.
If I go with the third option there's more that I can do to the bar to help prevent the tensioner from ever going into my spokes. I could make an I-beam with slots on either end that fit onto my rear drop out and bottom bar at a diagonal. In the center I can bolt into the bar I would make for the third option.
Thoughts, opinions? Need a visual diagram/photo? I am not sure whether the third option gives me any advantages over what option 2 would give me, other than it provides another support structure for the chain itself and a mounting point for the chain guard?
Visual:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/EmailNBheleu/ThirdOption.jpg
http://spookytoothcycles.com/images/engines/bearing-tensioner-assmbly.jpg
(I know the tensioner is a problem on these kits... I have read plenty of forums on the problems) I too have been having a problem with the chain tensioner that came with my Skyhawk kit I purchased from Spookytooth. This was the 66cc kit that they stopped selling, probably due to the EPA import restriction. The tensioner keeps sliding back down loosening the chain. To the best of my knowledge the sprocket on the rear wheel is centered; therefore, it is not a wobbly sprocket pulling it loose but instead the tug of the engine on the chain. The freewheel portion of the tensioner will no longer tighten, nor will it loosen (but freely spins and the wheel assembly slides up and down the slot if you wiggle it by hand) so it is stuck moving up or down in the slotted groove on the tensioner housing. I know I have a few options.
The first option is to replace it with the mods mentioned on the forums (with a spring tensioner). Though the problems with spring tensioners are that it makes it more difficult to pedal start the engine.
The second option is to replace the 410 chain with #41 chain and use halflinks and avoid use of the tensioner altogether.
The third option that I thought about after really looking at the setup is to take a small metal bar, drill a partial hole so that the end of the bolt on the freewheel pokes into it (does not have to go through all the way, just grips it enough that it keeps the tensioner at the correct height). Next drill either a slotted hole (where I can adjust the tensioner height slightly) or a precision hole at a distance low enough that the top frame bolt will go through. I know I will have to replace this frame bolt with a longer one.
If I go with the third option there's more that I can do to the bar to help prevent the tensioner from ever going into my spokes. I could make an I-beam with slots on either end that fit onto my rear drop out and bottom bar at a diagonal. In the center I can bolt into the bar I would make for the third option.
Thoughts, opinions? Need a visual diagram/photo? I am not sure whether the third option gives me any advantages over what option 2 would give me, other than it provides another support structure for the chain itself and a mounting point for the chain guard?
Visual:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/EmailNBheleu/ThirdOption.jpg
Last edited: