a/c man
Member
Here's the way I did mine before the shift kit made it unnecessary.
Flat 1 1/2" bar stock from home depot $6.50 for a 3 ft piece
Took a good quality skate board wheel (my son has plenty)
These wheels have really nice sealed bearings (2 sets in each wheel)
Chucked it up in the Dewalt drill using a mandrel designed to use those
cutting wheel attachments for electric drills.
Clamped the drill to the work bench and held a 5/8" wide file against the roller wheel until it cut a channel in the wheel about 1/2" deep .
I mounted the flat bar to the chainstay and seatstay using the original U shaped clamps that came with the stock tensioner. I cut the adjusting groove in the bar using a series of adjacent drilled holes, then filed out the spaces between the holes to make a slotted hole for the wheel to bolt thru.
It worked really well and I used it for over 350 miles before I didn't need it anymore. Ditch the stock junk chain and get a good #41 chain that won't stretch and self-destruct.
Flat 1 1/2" bar stock from home depot $6.50 for a 3 ft piece
Took a good quality skate board wheel (my son has plenty)
These wheels have really nice sealed bearings (2 sets in each wheel)
Chucked it up in the Dewalt drill using a mandrel designed to use those
cutting wheel attachments for electric drills.
Clamped the drill to the work bench and held a 5/8" wide file against the roller wheel until it cut a channel in the wheel about 1/2" deep .
I mounted the flat bar to the chainstay and seatstay using the original U shaped clamps that came with the stock tensioner. I cut the adjusting groove in the bar using a series of adjacent drilled holes, then filed out the spaces between the holes to make a slotted hole for the wheel to bolt thru.
It worked really well and I used it for over 350 miles before I didn't need it anymore. Ditch the stock junk chain and get a good #41 chain that won't stretch and self-destruct.