Safety USE LOCKTITE! my friend just crashed because...

[happycheapskate]

Do not use thread adhesive on spoke nipples

I've built road, BMX, and mountain bike wheels. I only use 1 thing in preparation of spokes or during truing: 90% Isopropyl "rubbing" alcohol.

In a small squirt bottle or dripper bottle, it is convenient to run down the spokes, which will lubricate them temporarily and prevent siezing. It also acts as an astringent and helps get dirt and dust out of the nipples. When it dries, the spokes, if properly tight, should not move under cycling of the wheel, but may still be moved by a spoke wrench.
Tip: use tape-wrapped or filed smooth pliers to hold the spoke during final tightening sequences, to prevent spoke wind up.

If you just have to use something as an anti-corrosive or "threadlock", get Wheelsmith Spoke Prep, or Fingernail Polish (at Dollar Stores everywhere).
Threadlock, even the weak # blue type, is probably overkill for spokes, and may cause rounding off of the nipples when you try to adjust the wheel.

The flesh mends in time, the lessons endure a lifetime!

I've used two different green Loc-tites, both good in their given applications:

"Wimpy" Green (can't remember #): A flange sealant. Good success using it to prevent air leaks in water-cooled 2-cycle crankcases.

"Thick" Green (CRS sux...): Cylindrical fit adhesive. Good for locking bearing races into slightly worn bores.

Wouldn't throw any of 'em out. Each color has the same basic ingredient, basically in different strengths. Any one will do in a pinch. Just go easy on the red!

I believe I remember a purple, too. Wimpier than Wimpy Green. For tiny, little fasteners. Thinking it'll help keep my spokes tight when I get around to building up some wheels. Double-walled rims prevent the rim strip (aided by tire pressure) from preventing rotation of the spoke nipples. Some pro builders recommend Loc-tite.

"Room temperature, self-(D***ed CRS!) anaerobic sealants": they're all good!

Yoda

 

[happycheapskate]

Polyglycol dimethacrylate.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/msds/T_LKR_BLUE_msds.pdf
I didn't take chemistry. Is it a type of glue related to "super glue"?

I use it all the Time.
Stupid trivia: What it the main ingredient in Loc-Tite?

 

[Hawaii_Ed]

Exactly why I check all my important fasteners every fill up. It is a good habit to get into...

 

[domino]

Good info on blue red and green loctite. I had bought red and was going to use it to reassemble my ht. Glad I read this thread. I now know blue is the way to go. You guy are a wealth of knowledge.

 

[GearNut]

Polyglycol dimethacrylate.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/msds/T_LKR_BLUE_msds.pdf
I didn't take chemistry. Is it a type of glue related to "super glue"?

Yes, a variant of superglue.
I always thought it was funny, the thought of supergluing hardware together.
Mind you that superglue itself will not in any way work like Loc-Tite will.

 

[GearNut]

Thank you for the tips, happycheapskate!
I have only trued bicycle wheels and laced and trued motorcycle wheels. I was taught to use a light oil on motorcycle spoke nipples, and thought that it would also apply to bicycle wheels too. Now I know better.

 

[Yoda Bob]

I second the thanks for the tips, happycheapskate.

Loc-tite is probably over-kill. I'd forgotten about nail polish. Used it twenty years ago on the last set of wheels I built. Seemed to work just fine. The wheels stayed true and outlived the bike.

Got a preference for color?

 

[Stan4d]

Real Man Talk

I second the thanks for the tips, happycheapskate.

Loc-tite is probably over-kill. I'd forgotten about nail polish. Used it twenty years ago on the last set of wheels I built. Seemed to work just fine. The wheels stayed true and outlived the bike.

Got a preference for color?

I prefer "No I am not really a waitress" by O.P.I. kinda a reddish burgandy.

 

[happycheapskate]

Clear coat is best, or white. Use a very small brush or q-tips to apply it to the threads of the spoke, after starting the threading of the nipples and assembling the wheel, before tightening, or about halfway up the threads on each spoke.

You can glue the bottle to a piece of cardboard to avoid tipping it over while working and allow for drips.

Another tip: you can use nail polish remover (acetone) to clean threaded drilled holes and fasteners of dirt, grease, and loctite.

Surely some female in your family will have a bottle of unwanted polish that you can have for free. Blood red polish works great for highlighting iron sights on rifles and paintball equipment. If you use it on your spokes, and people ask about it, you can tell them it is Phil Wood Super Bond Spoke Prep and its $25/oz, but you can't remember where to get it because you bought it in France. ;->

If you are too embarrassed to buy any nail polish, get white or clearcoat model paint in the small Testors bottle. Apply carefully or you will mark up your rims or worse something in the house that the wife will find out about .

Another great tip for wheelbuilding at home. Buy a cheap stubby flathead screwdriver and grind the sides down with a grinding wheel, till they fit inside spoke holes. You can quickly assemble wheels without an expensive nipple-driver tool, and still use it for regular screws.

I second the thanks for the tips, happycheapskate.

Loc-tite is probably over-kill. I'd forgotten about nail polish. Used it twenty years ago on the last set of wheels I built. Seemed to work just fine. The wheels stayed true and outlived the bike.

Got a preference for color?