im installing a skyhawk 66cc engine on my schwinn jaguar beach cruiser but i think something is wrong with the clutch no mater how far i push the lever to disengage the drive shaft it wont disengage so i opened up the right side of the engine exposing the clutch plate and when i pull the lever it only pushes out one side of the clutch plate also the flower nut on the other side doesn't have a groove going along it to adjust it which is described in the manual i am kind of a beginner with these engines i heard the plate could be sticking from sitting for a long time and that if i hit it with a rubber or raw hide head hammer it could un-stick it if any one can help or clear up for me why the clutch isnt working it would be greatly appreciated thank you
skyhawk 66cc clutch trouble
- Thread starter Arlonious
- Start date
The item that is struck is the shaft (called a bucking bar), about the diameter as a wooden pencil, that sticks out of the center of the sprocket shaft on the left side of the engine.
You have to remove the sprocket cover/ clutch release to get to it.
The bucking bar is only held in place by a little bit of grease as assembled by the factory.
Be careful that it does not fall out when the cover is removed.Behind the bucking bar is a single ball bearing, the same diameter as the bucking bar. It may fall out too.
After the cover is removed and all the other parts are in place, use a piece of hardwood or plastic to protect the end of the bucking bar, strike the bucking bar firmly with a hammer to jar loose the clutch internals. Do not hit is so hard as to knock it into next week, you do not want to damage anything.
While you are in there it is a good idea to remove the bucking bar and single ball bearing and put a glob of quality grease inside the hollow shaft. Replace the single ball bearing followed by the bucking bar. Wipe clean any excess grease that may have squished out, but leave a little on the tip of the bucking bar to help lubricate the clutch release cam (in the cover you had to remove) to bucking bar contact area.
You have to remove the sprocket cover/ clutch release to get to it.
The bucking bar is only held in place by a little bit of grease as assembled by the factory.
Be careful that it does not fall out when the cover is removed.Behind the bucking bar is a single ball bearing, the same diameter as the bucking bar. It may fall out too.
After the cover is removed and all the other parts are in place, use a piece of hardwood or plastic to protect the end of the bucking bar, strike the bucking bar firmly with a hammer to jar loose the clutch internals. Do not hit is so hard as to knock it into next week, you do not want to damage anything.
While you are in there it is a good idea to remove the bucking bar and single ball bearing and put a glob of quality grease inside the hollow shaft. Replace the single ball bearing followed by the bucking bar. Wipe clean any excess grease that may have squished out, but leave a little on the tip of the bucking bar to help lubricate the clutch release cam (in the cover you had to remove) to bucking bar contact area.
As for adjusting the flower nut, (you obviously have the clutch cover off all ready) first remove the small lock screw that fits into one of the notches in the flower nut.
Now squeeze in the clutch lever and use some tape or a piece of wire to hold it in all the way against the handlebar grip. Now all the clutch spring pressure has been relieved from the flower nut and it should be easy to turn with your finger tips.
Turn the flower nut all the way in until it is snug tight. Turn it back out about 1/2 to 1 turn and align one of the notches in it with the screw hole for the lock screw. Start the lock screw back into the pressure plate, don't tighten it yet, just run it down snug.
Now remove the tape or wire holding the clutch lever in tight to the handle bar grip.
Let the clutch engage. This will hold the pressure plate for you when you tighten the lock screw. Tighten the lock screw. Reinstall the clutch cover and all should be good.
Now squeeze in the clutch lever and use some tape or a piece of wire to hold it in all the way against the handlebar grip. Now all the clutch spring pressure has been relieved from the flower nut and it should be easy to turn with your finger tips.
Turn the flower nut all the way in until it is snug tight. Turn it back out about 1/2 to 1 turn and align one of the notches in it with the screw hole for the lock screw. Start the lock screw back into the pressure plate, don't tighten it yet, just run it down snug.
Now remove the tape or wire holding the clutch lever in tight to the handle bar grip.
Let the clutch engage. This will hold the pressure plate for you when you tighten the lock screw. Tighten the lock screw. Reinstall the clutch cover and all should be good.
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Cavi Mike
Member
Mine came that way also. I removed the pressure plate altogether and it made no difference, the whole unit is just very tight. I spent some time turning it and it has started to free itself up, I'm sure it will be fine once it's broken in.
AussieSteve
Active Member
More often than not, with a new engine, this problem is actually caused by the clutch pads sticking to the plates, due to sitting for a long time after assembly.
Best cure is to remove the RHS side-cover and jam a piece of folded rag in the top of the crankshaft cog/clutch cog to lock the engine, then pull the clutch in and pin it and roll the bike forward with some weight on it. (A bit of backwards/forwards might be needed to jolt it free.)
If that doesn't work, remove the clover nut and outer clutch plate, then do the same, because the rear of the clutch pads could be sticking.
Best cure is to remove the RHS side-cover and jam a piece of folded rag in the top of the crankshaft cog/clutch cog to lock the engine, then pull the clutch in and pin it and roll the bike forward with some weight on it. (A bit of backwards/forwards might be needed to jolt it free.)
If that doesn't work, remove the clover nut and outer clutch plate, then do the same, because the rear of the clutch pads could be sticking.
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Another issue that these clutches have is the little friction pads are commonly cut out just a little bit too big to fit in the "pockets" of the ring gear.
They do not need to fit sloppy, just loose enough to wiggle a little bit so they can fully float and release when needed to.
It is not hard to dress and deburr the edges of the friction pads with some 150 or 200 grit sand paper.
It just takes time as there are alot of them.
I recommend wearing a dust mask if you do this. Some folks believe that they may contain asbestos, although I do not believe that.
They do not need to fit sloppy, just loose enough to wiggle a little bit so they can fully float and release when needed to.
It is not hard to dress and deburr the edges of the friction pads with some 150 or 200 grit sand paper.
It just takes time as there are alot of them.
I recommend wearing a dust mask if you do this. Some folks believe that they may contain asbestos, although I do not believe that.
Cavi Mike
Member
You're not supposed to pedal with the clutch engaged, that's what the pin on the lever is for. As for riding this bike normally, forget about it, there's way too much drag in this setup.
AussieSteve
Active Member
Pedal up to speed then drop the clutch to bump-start.
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